Adventure Biokovo: Over Šćirovac Peak and Into the Hut

This time the adventure took us on a mountain called Biokovo. A young and indeed very steep mountain which positioned itself in south Dalmatia. Those who have been to any beach on Makarska riviera most likely have an image of Biokovo in their minds. The massive and steep mountain standing proud before you while swimming in its foothills makes no one indifferent.

We chose a beautiful, but quite physically demanding trail. In short, the plan was a 2 day circle hike while passing the Napoleon trail to begin with. By following the Bukovac trail we would reach Šćirovac peak in the afternoon and spend the night in the magical mountain hut PS Pakline to finish off the day. The return to the car was planned for the next day, saving the easiest part for last.

DAY 1

MORNING

Since we were driving from Split we didn’t have to head out too early. There is around 1h to Brela, so we left Split at 7 and arrived around 8. We parked the car in the bushes on the side of a dirt road, took our gear and crossed ourselves in the hope to find the car on the way back.

We started the hike through a small pine tree forest just to come out before a piece of Croatian history. A civil engineering breakthrough of the 19th century called “The Napoleon road”. During a short, but engineeringly effective Napoleon’s reign over Croatia, the French started building. To connect Dalmatia with other parts of the country they came up with a new way of road making. This is one of the best preserved examples of the French road engineering.

Our path onwards took us mainly through the woods and forest for the next 4 km, so we decided to enjoy the view a bit with some photo session.

From the Napoleon road we took the path towards the chapel of Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas) through a pine tree forest. There is something about those walks under the green pines high enough to create a shade, but their canopy thin enough to still feel the sun. In addition to that, these pine trees had a unique look. They had a wide canopy and not only that, but they were very short. The resin from those trees is called paklina hence the hut’s name Pakline.

AFTERNOON

Upon arrival at the chapel of Sv. Nikola on a small hill Prirovac (527 m) we passed around 4.7 km and still had 13 km to go for the day. The chapel was built in the 14th century in the name of the protector of Brela Sv. Nikola, so it felt like a good spot for another short break before peak Bukovac.

Whenever you are surrounded with views on all sides, every 10 m feel like a whole new view. That is how we felt like on Biokovo. In fact each new step gave us something new to process. Next 3 km we covered 600 m of height straight to the “T” intersection. We took a turn to the peak Bukovac (1,262 m) because those views should not be missed. This obviously gave us a boost for the remaining of the day and we sure did need it.

We went back to the T intersection where we now chose Šćirovac. The first part was a 300 m of height gain in 1 km of distance (average 33% incline) followed by a relatively easy 1.5 km to Šćirovac. From Šćirovac (1619 m) we could see another two important peeks of Biokovo. The middle one from the left is Sv. Ilija (St. Elijah) and the one with the big radio beacon is the highest point of Biokovo, Sv. Jure.

Biokovo is a true definition of Dalmatia. It is pointy, heavy, aggressive and full of uncomfortable stones both at the beaches at it’s foothills and it’s peeks. Yet, it is so damn beautiful and worth all the sweat and blood. The same you could apply to it’s people because we are Impulsive, hasty and on first impression aggressive. But actually heartful, kind and ready to give our blood if you ask for it.

EVENING

From Širovac we covered almost 1 km of height on a very steep and above all uncomfortable terrain. Some parts reminded us of the steep stairs Smeagoll took Frodo and Sam on their way to Mordor. You could really see and feel why Biokovo is a home to chamois (wild goats). It is not that common to spot chamois or let alone come near it as it will run away over those stones like a cheetah. It is insane how agile and quick they are. But the fortune smiles at us for all the hard work so far…

After reaching Topol (957 m) we had around 500 m to cover before entering our last section and some parts were really steep (up to 60% grade). 700 m prior to the intersection and our final climb gave us many problems with the markings. We lost it several times because of poor marking condition, big rocks that fell of and covered the markings or overgrown bushes. At one point we had to break through the vegetation and hope to find the trail on the other side. We did, thanks to the map on my watch. At that moment we already did 15 km on a relatively rough terrain. We were looking at the final 2.5 km out of which 1 km was a steep incline (40% in average).

After 17 long and tiring kilometres the hut “Pakline” welcomed us with this scenery. There was no better reward. The most golden sun, a hygge hut and sea view to die for. Once again it proves to be true, the best things in life are free. Tired as we were, we enjoyed these views for some time before making a quick dinner and calling it a day. A nice sleep awaited us.

DAY 2

MORNING

We were not in a hurry, so we decided to enjoy this lovely day and chill in the nice weather and nature while exploring the area. Some were reading books in the sun, some sunbathing or enjoying the the tasty dry leftovers from yesterday sandwiches. In a place like this it all tastes like a Michelin star restaurant.

AFTERNOON

Time was to head off and we had an easy 5 km of relaxing and beautiful trail back. It was a good idea to leave this for last as it gave us time to enjoy the walk without heavy breaths. Along the way there were still a lot of amazing scenes like “The hollow rock” (Eye of the Biokovo), cute pine tree forest and amazing sunset views.

EVENING

The mountain told us farewell with this amazing sunset. We really could not have had a better trip. Tired as hell, we soaked up the last rays of sunshine over Omiška Dinara and Adriatic sea in the distance and left Biokovo with the best memories. We are coming back!