Similar to Dinara, it shares the general landscapes with wide open grass fields throughout the whole hike.

The route

The starting point was a parking lot at Donja Korita. Roughly 40 min drive from Split through places Dicmo, Trilj and Grab to finish it off with a dirt road that reaches a T-cross section with the parking lot on the left side and a another dirt road to the right. You can leave the car at the parking lot, but if you have a bit higher suspension car it is possible to continue down the road where you reach a dead end and saving cca 2.5 km of a boring-ish walk.

After passing a small water fountain the trail begins. That is also the only spot on the trail for a water refill, so it is important to take it in consideration.

The start

As mentioned above, the 2.5 km after the parking lot is a typical dirt road surrounded by small hills. It is not so bad at when starting, but quite boring when returning. We happened to be very lucky to run into an older local guy who gladly gave us a lift to the water fountain. All he wanted in exchange was a blowj…. just a conversation to waste some time. He was very funny, kind and a bit special as they do get in those areas. It is hard to get the idea if you are not a local.

We started the hike and the beginning was quite nice in the valley. The trail wasn’t difficult and the markations were clearly visible. After the first couple kilometers the trail enters start to climb up entering the vast pastures. That part was nothing special, at moments a bit boring but it all starts to pay off once we got closer to the ridge.

At one point, just below the ridge there is a T cross section. The turn left leads to the highest point of Kamešnica in Croatia called “Kamešnica” or “Kurljaj” and the right turn leads to our todays goal, the peak Konj. Konj is the highest peak of Kamešnica mountain and is located in Bosnia and Hercegovina. From that point on all we had to do is follow the ridge straight to Konj.

The peak – Konj (Horse)

After 10 km and cca 5h we reached Konj (1856m). The views really were spectacular. a 360 view of Buško lake, mountains Dinara, Biokovo, Čvrsnica, Mosor and many other. Of course we took some time for a photo shoot, but had to do it fast as thick clouds were catching up behind us.

DEsCENt

As the weather itself wasn’t sure of its next move we started to descent. It happened to be that one the way down we saw the best views of the day. A structured group of rocks looking like some medieval fortress. Absolutely stunning. Could you imagine a better spot for some music video stage or crowning the new king of Gondor? Hardly…

We took our time as if it was really spectacular and not really noticeable when we were ascending. This different angle made the world of difference.

We finished the whole trail of 21km in 9h. The trail is not that difficult and could easily be done much faster, but obviously the photography took its toll. Considering the landscapes we didn’t mind at all! Kamešnica proved to be very interesting and beautiful. And we believe it might be even better during the winter.

Until next time,
Hygge Trails of Croatia

The trail

We left Split very late, so the plan was to get to Dolina Tisovice (Tisovica valley) by an off-road car, walk to the mountain hut Vrutak (cca 2km) and spend the night. The following day we planned on reaching the peaks Otiš and Zelena glava and coming back for a second sleepover. Then the final morning going back to the car and heading off to Split.

The trickiest part was reaching the starting point, Dolina Tisovice. There were 2 ways and the easiest one was getting an off-road 4×4 car transportation as the path was very unfriendly and can often be covered with huge rocks. The trail we chose was short cca 13 km, but we obviously investigated much more and roamed around (not included in the total distance). There was no reason for bringing huge amounts of water as there was a small water well 200m below the hut. That same well can dry out in summer time, so it would be necessary to bring more than 2L then.

Day 1

We left Split around 19:00 which was late considering we had to drive for 2h to Jablanica (BiH), swap the car for an off-road SUV and take another 2h drive to Tisovica valley. We arrived at the valley around 00:30 which is definitely the latest we have ever started a hike, but it was a very relaxing feeling. Hiking at night can be scary and not knowing what surrounds you may be uncomfortable for some. But it can also be incredibly calming, hearing nothing but silence and seeing only mountain shapes in a starry sky. When we arrived at the hut it was almost 2 in the morning and we really needed some sleep and rest before getting up early.

Day 2 – Morning

The most revelatory feeling of hiking through an area in dark is seeing the same area in daylight afterwards. Especially if you have never been there, so you don’t even know what awaits you when you wake up. This was exactly what happened to us. Stepping out of the hut in the morning was one of the best sights for eyes we have ever seen.

Wow, what a fucking view! The massive, bulky and dominant appearance of Prenj was absolutely stunning and we were so eger to start. The backpacks were ready still from last night, so we just hit the road. Our first goal was peak Otiš, probably the most photogenic peak so far. It really stood tall and proud for everyone to see from kilometers away. Otiš is located at 2097m while Zelena glava at 2103m. The weather was basically like a summer day in April. The sun was strong and no one could escape from getting red even with the sun cream, but the snow was cooling us down along the way.

The path was easy and straightforward all until the incline to Otiš peak. We decided to try with a detour as we estimated that we could manage it. It would be faster than the official trail, but it was pretty steep and didn’t have any markings, so we had to be very careful where we step. We reached the first peak, Otiš. Amazing views with the whole Prenj and other mountain ranges on the palm of our hands.

Afternoon

On the way down we saw a group of recreational hikers who decided to follow our way via the detour without a second thought. We encountered them trapped on a very tricky spot. It was a snowy and slippery slope without a possibility to go back, but only up. Needless to say that not one of them had any basic hiking equipment. Walking shoes, sleeveless shirts, no crampons, no iceaxes….nothing. Complete idiots! Luckily for them 2 members of Bosnian Mountain rescue service were in our group who stepped up and helped.

The worst thing is that they weren’t even aware of the fact that they could have been resting in peace now and they just continued as if nothing happened. Regardless, we continued our way to the highest point of Prenj Zelena glava (The Green head)

We put our crampons on our boots and ice-axes in our hands and started the climb up. The snow wasn’t so hard so we had to be careful where and how we step. This part was really amazing and interesting, but going down was just as fun as going up!

Couple hours of the sheer experience of being on the top of Bosnian Himalayas as Prenj is also called and it was time to return. 2 members of our group left so it was only 3 of us going back to the hut. It was one of those chill hikes, no pressure, no running, but just pure embracement of the moment and the place. We took our time on every enjoyable spot and admired the beauty that this mountain radiates with.

Few hundred meters down, the snowy ambient stopped and vibrant spring colours kicked in. Two different worlds and each beautiful in its own way.

Once we got back to the hut we took a quick mountain wash with a cold water and made coffee with the best view. Priceless and yet it was for free. Best things in life are free. After a good rest we continued exploring this area filled with diverse landscapes. Tisovica valley was just a 15 min walk away so that was our next checkpoint.

Evening

Tisova valley was one of the most relaxing places in anture we have visited. The tranquillity this whole area poseses was beyond any word in dictionary. Vast empty green fields just called for a camp night. We were sitting at this table for 1.5h without a worry on our mind. Once we got back to the hut it was time for the cosiest camp fire and a nice plate of gulaš that tucked us right into sleep.

Day 3

It is always difficult to end a hike and heart-breaking to go back to reality. We really didn’t feel like leaving this place at all, so we had to soak every bit of the fresh mountain air we still could.

Tisovica valley is worth seeing countless number of times. As the valley is surrounded with high mountains it feels as if you are being embraced in its arms. One of the best hiking trips ever. Seeing and experiencing this nature for 3 days was priceless. We reckon it won’t be long until we are back Prenj!

As always, I checked the weather forecast several times before the trip, including the night before. All forecasts have foreseen sunshine throughout the day with only a bit of clouds early in the morning. Since I had to drive cca 1.5h I counted on the clouds disappearing by the time I get there.

The route

The starting point was a parking spot by a mountain home Glavaš. From there the path followed a comfortable trail to an old abandoned shelter called Martinove košare (Martin’s baskets). The path continued through vast fields of picturesque Dinaric grass towards the steep section just below the peak. The rocky zig-zag incline started there that took me to the Sinjal/Dinara peak.

The route down from the top was a very straightforward one, descending on the south side and going in parallel with the famous Dinara cliffs. Further down the trail was another mountain shelter “Drago Grubać” after which the 2 trails met at a junction that lead back to start.

Morning

Driving in the car I noticed heavy grey and black clouds dominating in the sky. I thought to myself “the weather forecast people have fucked it up again…”. The enthusiasm was still high as I had another hour of drive so I consoled myself it could still change. Cca 1h later I was sitting in the car waiting for the bloody rain to stop. It was yet another evidence that the mountain forecast has to be taken with a reservation.

30 mins have passed and I was finally on my way. Since I was alone I could set my own pace to make up for the lost time. The first spot that definitely deserved a pause for observation was a medieval fortress.

The Dinarić aka Glavaš fortress built in the 15th century. It was built when the Ottoman invasion was very much expected. Dinarić fortress was a chain link of nearby fortresses in the Vrlika area. Another two are “Prozor” located above the Vrlika town while “Potravnik” sits in the south end of Peruča lake.

The weather was again going for the worse. Thick fog filled the valley and the rain started to drizzle again. I continued further because I have a decent gear, but hiking in rain is no fun especially if you have photo equipment.

Just when I thought “ok, I can handle this drizzle” it started pouring heavily and I had no choice but to hurry to the nearest shelter. The shelter that gave me the break from rain was called “Martinove košare”. It felt nice not being wet while cursing at everything alive and dead, weather forecasts and my bad luck. In the middle of my juiciest curse I got interrupted by few fellow hikers looking for a dry spot too.

We chatted for 30 mins and just when I was about to call it a day the rain stopped, heavy fog cleared up a bit and just like that my plans changed. I went all in with a ridiculously fast tempo to make up for the lost time. The only good thing about the fog was that it made scenery look very mystical, which is always a good thing (…unless you get lost, then it’s a thriller). But the mountains really get a special vibe in these conditions.

All the way from Martinove košare until the last section the weather served me fine, but of course just when I needed it to be good it went for the worse. The last incline had poor markings because the paint had faded away, so hikers used nearby stones to build cones for better visualisation of the route. All that goes down the drain when a thick fog swallows your sight and you are not able to see 3 m ahead.

Luckily I had my GPS watch with a preloaded GPX trail. I could not stress enough how important and valuable that small piece of technology is , especially in situations like that. Without it, I would have been lost.

This, honestly speaking shitty photo, just serves as an evidence of how thick the fog was and that I have actually reached the top. Good news were that the way down was much better.

AFTERNOON

I had no reason to stay on top for long as I could not see anything. It was heavily blowing, I was wearing crampons due to frozen snow below the peak, so I just wanted to get myself in a more visible and comfortable surroundings. For the next 30 mins the fog was still blocking the views all around me, but I could clearly see in a radius of 20m. At one point as I got beneath the cloud it all opened up right in front of me.

I might have not seen much before, but this has made it all worth it. The colour contrast of the unique Dianara grass and the distant dark fields, Peruča lake and other parts of Dinara was beautiful. Now I could slow down completely, take my time and enjoy the tranquillity of the ambient . I was not far away from start, so I had nowhere to hurry. Finally it was time for the drone. Take a minute to watch the video for a better understanding of the place.

I was just roaming around for 2 hours, taking shots and admiring the landscape, but then it was time to go on. Not much further ahead, another shelter was awaiting called Drago Grubać. The shelter got its name after a Croatian soldier and a mountaineer who passed away in 2016.

Evening

There was not much left to finish the trail, so I had to cherish every view. And I sure had something to glaze upon as the sun was setting. Only thing left to do was to sit back and observe the magic. The whole Vrlika area was on the palm of my hand. Breathtaking sight.

A crazy day full of turnarounds. All in all it ended amazing and Dinara showed herself in a completely different face to what I have experienced so far. When I approached the car parked by the mountain home, there was one someone so happy that I have returned. He has sent me off to the mountain in the morning and welcomed me back at night. A real good boy (he stole my sock).

One of Croatia’s most beautiful and by far roughest and harshest mountains. Its combination of steep reefs and the sea they fall straight into is a unique sight for eyes. The very things that make it breathtaking and picturesque are the same ones that can put your life in danger. Not to exaggerate, this is not Matterhorn or Mt. Everest by all means, but Biokovo is seriously underestimated. A lot of foreign “hikers” approach it as a walk in the park. More often than not they end up with a Croatian mountain rescue service phone number on their screen.

It is a very steep, rocky and dry (few water refill spots) mountain. The most frequent issues are dehydration, sliding down the accumulations of rock debris or spraining an ankle due to uneven terrain. On many places the markings are very bad. They either faded out, burned down due to fire, got hidden by rocks due to earthquake or just got abandoned by the local mountaineering association. Therefore it is necessary to get all the information of the trail you want to use. Not to forget, check if there are any water sources along the path. That being said, Biokovo is undoubtably stunning!

The route

This time we decided to finally go to Sv. Ilija peak and as always we try to spend 2 days anywhere we go. We had few doubts before the trip, whether to sleep in a tent or to sleep in a shelter. Since we knew that the way up would be steep, for carry-on weight reasons we decided to spend the night in the shelter on the way up. In the following morning we reached the peak Sv. Ilija and then went back to our start in a small place called Bast.

The trail was 15.7 km long and it took us around 8.5h (across 2 days) of walking. Of course, due to taking photos and videos it lasted longer than it normally would. Without that part it could have been comfortable 7h, for us. We made sure we have enough water (3L each) due to sunny weather, steep terrain and Biokovo’s lack of sources of water along the trails. Even though we knew there was one by the shelter, we played it safe.

Day 1

Morning

Everything about this trip was in hurry and so was our start. We left Split at 11.20, hit the highway and were at Bast near Makarska at 12:30. We parked the car on the parking lot basically at the beginning of Bast. 10 mins after we were on our way. By the way Bast is one very cute little place in the foots of Biokovo.

From Bast there are two ways to Sv. Ilija. One to the right through Osičine and one to the left through quarry (rock excavation pit). The one through the quarry is probably the hardest and steepest classical hiking trail in Croatia. Originally we were planning on taking that one but due to the lack of time as we started late we chose Osičine which is a bit milder route. The beginning of the trail passes by the church and enters the forest between local houses on a narrow path. As we started getting higher and higher over the rock debris the view started to get better and better.

For those who don’t know or remember, there was a big fire on Biokovo 1.5 year ago. It destroyed large amount of pine tree forest and several marking posts located on trees. 90% of those big logs are still laying there on and off the hiking trail. So apart from not only being steep, the trail was also covered with tree logs to hop over. On the next cross section we turned left for “Kuća”.

Eveninng

We were loosing the sun here and realized that we would finish the hike with barely any light left, but nonetheless we welcomed the beautiful sunset with open arms. There are very few things if any, prettier than a mountain sunset with a sea view. This one is pretty hard to beat.

It was very hard to look away from this scene, so unfortunately after good 15 mins we had to continue forward to our shelter. From the small hunters cabin we turned right and 12 mins later on the next crossroad (we forgot to take a photo) we continued straight and that took us to our shelter located beneath the peak Korenik. The area is known as “Radića stanovi” which are old shepherd houses where people used to bring their cattle for pasture.

Needless to say how absolutely overwhelming the feeling is, when you have finished your first day of hike and all you have to do at that point is to sit back and relax. Relax in peace and quiet with the best piece of art there is just above your head for as far as your eyes can see…

Day 2

Rise and shine. It was time to head to Sv. Ilija peak. The weather was absolutely perfect, even too good for December. Backpack on, camera in place and we were ready to go. Since we slept in the less sunny north side it was a bit chilly in the shade, but luckily there were gaps where the sun rays could reach us, so they kept us warm until we crossed back to the south side again.

Our next stop was “Matijaševića stanovi”. Another set of old shepherd houses and this one looked just as impressive. A complex of drystone house ruins and yet you could still see and feel the soul of the place. The image in my head of how this little stone village looked like hundred years ago was very beautiful, unobtrusive and in complete sync with the environment.

10 meters from this spot was another sign for water source, but as we already had enough we did not need a refill. Also, we heard that it was not the cleanest and safest water to drink, so use it as a last resort.

After 1.5h we reached our goal, the Sv. Ilija peak located at 1642m. The views that arose on all sides were really spectacular. The sky as clear as it can get, temperature around 14 degrees and comfortable breeze that every now and then turns into a gust. Textbook example of a perfect weather on a perfect mountain. Bioko just like Velebit, acts like a climate separator as the sea side has sensitively different micro climate compared to the one on the other. But we were on the top, getting the best from both worlds.

As always, mesmerising views, the ones that Biokovo never lacks in. Overwhelming and unique combination of sea and sharp and aggressive mountains always has a more powerful and admirable look. Sunrises, sunsets, old drystone shepherd houses, cool shelters and beautiful scenery. Biokovo has it all!

We took the ferry from Split to Vis for 2 persons + a car – return ticket for 150€, which is a reasonable price considering the distance. Once we docked in the Vis port we headed towards Komiža. The road was very nice and it took only 15 mins. The whole island Vis is not that big, so going from one side of the island to the other takes only 25 mins.

10 mins in the drive and we already reached a beautiful viewpoint of Komiža, so of course we parked the car and took a nice look of our home for the next week. The original plan was to stay in Komiža 5 days and explore whatever we can, but it was so damn beautiful that we ended up staying 2 days more. Once you see the view from the apartment you will understand why!

How about that as a welcome sight. We knew already how good this trip will turn out to be. 10 mins later we were in our apartment where the nicest lady greeted us to show us the place and give us some tips in case we were on Vis for the first time. The biggest selling point of the apartment was its view and it was without a doubt one of the best you could have.

As a welcome gift our lovely host Linda even made us Viška pogača which is a Komiža speacialty made of bread, freshly sliced tomato sauce and salty srdela (european pilchard). She also made us her own limunčelo (lemon rakija). Uhh, it was all so tasty and to spice it all up with this view…priceless. The first day we just enjoyed this relaxing scenery.

STINIVA BEACH

For tourists and foreigners Vis will firstly come up as the island of making the Mamma Mia movie. For locals it is a place of infinite beauty, tranquility, amazing food and stunning nature. One of those places that will always stick to your memory after you see it is the famous beach/cove Stiniva. Located in the south part of Vis and accessable either by a boat or a 15 min downhill trekking route, Stiniva leaves you in awe!

A once closed cave which collapsed onto itself long time ago is now one of the most recognizable landmarks of island Vis. To be honest, picturing this beautiful beach as a closed cave seems even cooler!

Since it is a very touristy place, boats anchor 20m in front of the entrance throughout the day. Majority of them are usually annoyingly loud tourists who only see it as a more exotic place to leave beer cans behind instead of the town. During the summer days you get lucky with 20 mins between the boat tours to enjoy it in peace, but off season is another story. So after a nice, refreshing and surprisingly peaceful morning at Stiniva we decided to explore the town Vis.

The town of Vis

As you enter the Vis harbour via ferry, the buildings you would see in front of you as the fery docks do not amaze as much as the scenery around it. But, just a couple of hundred meters to the east there is the coziest, cutest and prettiest little area called Kut (The corner). The older part of an already old island (IV. century BC) gave off this strong mediterranean charm that knocks you off your feet.

Narrow charming streets where getting lost is never a bad outcome . As if that wasn’t enough, the clear blue sea that awaited us for a deserved refreshment was like a cherry on top.

How to end such a fulfilling day one might ask himself? In Komiža that is not a problem. By having a dinner with these landscapes. Pictures speak for themselves…

BEACH DAY

Something that an island like Vis did not lack in were mesmerizing beaches whether they were organized or wild. The sea was one of the clearest we have seen so far, so absolutely all boxes were checked for a good time. Even though we visited only some of them they all left a strong impression on us. We opened the day with one that is actually not on Vis but Biševo, an island 5.3 miles away.

Blue cave on Biševo

Something you really have to visit when you are on Vis. The sunlight reflecting from the white sand at the seabed enters the cave and creates this intense blue colour. As unique as it was, we still liked the Odysseus cave on Mljet more, but that is very spoiled of us since they were both incredible.

Stončica beach

10 mins from Vis town the road took us to Stončica beach. The asphalt road stops 100m before, so we walked the rest on the dirt road. Tess as a classic Dane prefers sandy beaches while Lovre as a typical Croatian love the rocky ones due to obvious reasons. But, even for Lovre this one was actually good as there were no people and the sea was very clear.

SREBRNA (The Silver beach)

The silver beach got its name due to its big white boulders and wide, flat rock plates that give it a strong white colour. Combined with a turquoise sea it looked incredbily appealing. It was calling for us to take a swim while looking so fresh. Since it was June and the sea was still not as warm it really was a refreshment.

PRITIŠĆINA beach

Just above Komiža, as we were driving up the serpentines we noticed one nice blue spot down at the sea level. We decided to go and check it out and we did not made a mistake. It took us 15 mins one way down the dirt road to reach it, but it was worth it. A small but very private beach (some of the time) was really what we needed. That day the sea was filled with jellyfish, but rather small ones. They sting a bit, but it passes after 3 mins.

Sunset on Hum and Tito’s caves

It would be weird if we didn’t climb somewhere and what better place for that is than the highest point of Vis, Hum. On the way up we decided to make a stop and take a look at Tito’s caves. A communist revolutionary and a politician, leader of the Yugoslavian partisans, president of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (1953-1980) Josip Broz Tito was hiding in these caves during the second world war, as this was the place where The supreme Headquarters of the People’s Liberation Partisan were located. An interesting piece of world history.

As the sun was almost setting we proceeded to Hum and by the little “Chapel of the holy spirit” we waited. The results were one of the most soothing sunsets ever. What a way to end the day.

The town of Komiža

It was hard to put into words the magnificent simplicity of this place and the beauty both visible and hidden to the naked eye. To truly feel it, the most suitable way was indeed the simplest way. A morning walk on the promenade followed by a cup of espresso machiato sitting in the shade by the sea and observing the boats out in the open.

Listening to the sounds of the summer, birds, waves and locals shouting in the background. Cats purring, laying in the sun or begging for a piece of your breakfast. Once that was done we took a walk through all the small and narrow streets (called kale in dalmatian).

Honestly, we could stroll around this place for months and it would be just as fulfilling as the first day. The old rock houses, olive trees, flowers, the colourful window shades…pure nirvana.

Couple of hundred meters from the Komiža center is a beautiful church of Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas) on an even better location. Sv. Nikola is a protector of sailors, seafarers, fishermen and travellers keeping his eyes on Komiža.

Magical isn’t it? As our last day was reaching its end we went back to our apartment, sat on the balcony with the stunning view, made a proper dalmatian finger food plate and raised our glasses to this without a doubt special place that left more than just a memorable impression on us, but crawled under our skin, forever.

about the trail

Total of 30km in 2 days made it a medium trail in terms of distance. The start of the trail was a nice, easy and familiar hike. Just below the mountain home Kredarica (2515m) the terrain started getting steeper. The first 2km of the trail were the same as the one we took to Viševnik. If you haven’t checked that one out you can do so on this link.

Except from the last part the trail was completely safe. The via ferrata from Kredarica to the top can be uncomfortable at points depending how well one handles height. It was not physically challenging, but having a big drop on both sides could create shakiness to some. For that reason a harness has to be used as a safety measure!

Day 1

We decided that it would be the best to drive somewhere close to the start of the trail, spend the night and begin the hike early. We found an adorable apartment in a place we would have never come across if it wasn’t for this trip. The place was called Hudajužna and it was an absolute gem of a village that represents everything that Slovenia is. Neatly cut grass with small hills all around the houses and little trails that lead to the top of each hill. There was also a river Bača flowing through the heart of the village while from all sides protected by heavy mountains. Two words for the ambient, soul nirvana.

Day 2

The plan was to reach the Kredarica hut with enough time to spare. Once we get there we would wait until the weather chages to start via ferrata. It took us 1h of drive from Hudajužna to the Hotel Center where our hike began. The weather was perfect with enough clouds to give the shade and enough sun to keep it warm. 2km after, we said goodby to the familiar path and took a left turn towards Triglav. Here the first landscapes of Koče (houses) on Konjšćica mountain appeared to our left side.

Vast fields followed us for majority of the way while green meadows gave off this cozy and relaxing tone. This ambient removes every bit of stress, if one could even have it in such a place. 400m futher down the path we reached an area called Jezerca (Little lakes). The name origins from a small stream that crates a pool of water and by following that stream we reached a higher spot and new admirable landscapes.

We couldn’t but to gaze on an incredibly photogenic peak called Ablanca as we were aproaching our next stop. It was another mountain hut called Vodnikov dom, below a peak named Vernar. It is safe to say that we could sit here for a week.

1h break and we were off again. The terrain started to get a bit steeper and green colours slowly faded away. Brown rocky ground and grey stones was our colour pallete for the rest of the way.

Once we reached Kredarica hut the weather was foggy as expected. We went to our booked room and relaxed until the weather changed, which was around 17 o’clock. Once the fog disappeared we took only the esentialls, the safety harness and the via ferrata could finally begin!

Via ferrata to the summit

The whole experience of climbing via ferrata was beyond exciting. Having that big drop on all sides made that feeling even more intense, but we have to say that it was not that difficult. Some parts were a bit on the edge, but just being focused and relaxed cleared out all danger.

These beautiful creatures made our way to the top even nicer. Every move they made looked so elegant and efortless regadless of the obstacle or the 400m huge hole below their hooves. You cannot beat the natural talent. It took us cca 1h to reach the top aka Aljažev stolp. Nedless to say that the views were breathtaking.

So far our highest peak we have been on and we were proud of it, 2864m! We took a good 1h of soaking in the feelings and sensations that this viewpoint radiates with. As magnificent as it was we didn’t want to climb down in the dark, therefore we hit the road back.

Climbing down felt much easier and we were down in no time. We were that lucky to even experience the warmest sunset as a reward for the hard day.

DAY 3

After a well deserved rest we had the last day in a complete relax mode. Since we already climbed the peak we could just sit outside in the sun and observe the hordes of people doing the via ferrata. Just a reminder, the Kredarica mountain hut can accommodate 300 people and it was full this weekend. 70% of them aimed for Sunday so we dodged a bullet by going the day before.

The clear sky indicated it would be very hot later, so we decided to head back while the temperature was still ok.

Last sips of tea in our favourite mug and of we go!

As expected we were going fast downhill, so we had some time to spare for a photo or two. The scenery in Triglav national park was absolutely gorgeous. Whatever you set your eyes on locks them for 2 minutes.

And just like that, our trip came to an end. Not gonna lie, we were so sad when we reached the car. Unforgettable experience filled with stunning landscapes, exciting via ferrata, loads of fun and great people. So many more amazing trails are located within Triglav park that just call out for visiting. And we most definitely will!

Last time we went to Vaganski peak and in case you missed it you can find it on this link . But this time we wanted to experience Velebit in the snow. We chose an already familiar trail without the snow, which is Sv. Brdo. If you want to compare the 2 opposite atmospheres check our Velebit – Sv. Brdo: The View that Never Disappoints. Honestly, they are both amazing and there is no wrong choice (but we do prefer the snow more).

The plan

The starting point was Malo Libinje. To reach Malo Libinje takes about 16 km after exiting the highway including around 9 km of dirt road. Total trail length was 16 km and it took us 8h to finish it, but we stopped a lot. It was a circle trail starting from Malo Libinje – Vlaški grad – Sv. Brdo – Dušice – Debelo Brdo – Malo Libinje. The trail overall is not very difficult, but obviously snow makes it more challenging as we needed crampons and gaiters at some places where the snow was deep and a bit frozen.

Morning

After 9 km of bouncing up and down on a dirty road we reached Malo Libinje. A beautiful area of wide fields where cows enjoy their morning grass breakfast in the foothills of Velebit reefs. One simply doesn’t even need to go further but to stay here and soak in the intact nature with all senses.

Velebit hits from very start. Beauty to the maximum and it never stops. We passed the cute cows on the grass fields and started going up slowly. Unfortunately we did not run into wild horses which are common in these areas, but maybe next time. The weather was very nice with full sun, so a sunscreen was a must. There was no snow in this part so we were going pretty fast, but Velebit always makes you stop to admire something.

2 km before Vlaški grad (the hut) we started seeing traces of snow and that was an introduction to a completely different vibe that awaited us. Every nature trip regardless how nice it is gets even better if animals appear. We were lucky enough to witness several deer just casually roaming around the area looking for food.

Parallel with the deer we got closer to Vlaški grad. The first time we took this path we covered it during night time and therefore didn’t even see this part of trail until this day. It was a very cute path and definitely not worth missing out on.

Afternoon

Right after the hut we took a turn to the right and hiked up the small steep hill. As we went around it the wind started to blow a bit and the snow was deeper, so we changed our shoes and put on the gaiters.

Few meters after, the view of the Sv. Brdo (The Holy Hill) hit us with such beauty. We remember it without the snow so now it was a completely different look and damn, it sure looked nice.

For comparison purposes we put an image from the last time without the snow and now. The same spot, two different looks and we would say 60:40 in favour of snow.

Halfway on the uphill before the peak beautiful views opened up and we could not ignore them.

What to add more after these photos. Pure nirvana and we wished it never ends. Even the peak wasn’t that important anymore because this is what we came for. We wouldn’t change it for anything. Still, we had to continue because the day was not that long and we used a lot of time by admiring the scenery from the peak.

Evening

Wind got stronger on the top so we didn’t stay for long, but enough to enjoy the views. Titled as the best in Croatia, it certainly lives up to its name. Adriatic sea, Tulove grede, mountain peaks on all sides and islands leave everyone speechless. Time didn’t go in our favour so we continued our walk towards Dušice (Little souls) on the steep south-west reef under Sv. Brdo.

Dušice are a sand dune looking kind of small hummocks covered with grass, but this time with extra layer of snow. It is such a cute place, ideal for kids to play around.

10 mins from Dušice hummocks we reached the shelter Dušice. Definitely convenient if you get caught by night or harsh weather and the hut is not bad at all.

Sun was going down fast and we still had 5 km to go. there was no sun but there was still light. Until we hit the clearance before the Debelo brdo (The Fat hill). Not only we got sun but we got the best sunset you could imagine. Nothing beats a nice sunset especially when finishing a hiking day. Get ready for this…

1h later we were in the car sitting and still heavily impressed by the orange soul food called sunset. What an amazing trip. Velebit will always have a special place in our heart and with full right. We hope we managed to transfer at least a portion of the cosiness of this hygge trail of Velebit. Thank you and stay tuned for more.

Natural 84 km border between Croatia and Bosnia and Hercegovina, the youngest member of “Park of nature” category (since 2021) and the highest mountain in Croatia. Dinara is positioned between the river Cetina in the SW and Livanjsko Polje in the NE. The highest peak (Troglav – 1913 m) of the massive Dinara is located on a mountain Troglav, one of the 3 mountains (Dinara, Kamešnica and Troglav) that create this massive and is located in BiH. Croatians highest point lays on the mountain Dinara and it is called Sinjal (1831 m).

It is mostly recognized for its curvy grass fields, tall and wide eastern cliffs and its absence of trees. It is also famous for the wind bura that often blows hard in this areas. Compared to Velebit for example or Biokovo it is less attractive, but believe us when we say that Dinara has its charm.

Our plan

Our plan for this hike was to reach the highest point, Troglav. Unfortunately, due to very strong bura we had to cancel our ascent to the top on the 2nd day. Even though a bit disappointed we were very happy with our hygge night at the Pume shelter nonetheless.

As we have walked this trail few times before we knew what to expect in terms of terrain and weather. The trail in total was around 24km and in general not very difficult. We could divide it in 3 parts. The first one through the woods, second on the steeper more open terrain and the third follows the wide grass hills to the hut.

Day 1

We started the hike at 10 o’ clock from a small village called Ježević. To the shelter Pume it takes 4.5-6h depending on the tempo. We had enough time so we took it slow and enjoyed the weather. Dinara is huge and very massive. It showed us that at the very start when we stood in front of it. The first part followed the dirt road for 2 km and one portion of it can be covered with a regular car.

After 2 km of dirt road we entered the forest part. The trail was nicely marked with renewed old markings. Also there were new educational boards since the last time we have been here. The weather was perfect, 18 degrees and full sun. Knowing the weather on Dinara, it was unquestionable that snow and bura would cool us down later on.

After Dinara, The Dinarides continue with a mountain called Kamešnica. Another part of the Croatian – Bosnian border. Majority of it lays in BiH with its highest peak at 1856 m called Konj (Horse). The highest point on the Croatian side is called Glavaš (1308 m). We had a pretty good view of it throughout the whole trip indeed.

After the forest, the path goes on in serpentines to cancel out the steeper incline of this part. From here we could see the whole Vrlika area. The artificial Peruča lake layed in the the foothills of Dinara on one side while having mountain Svilaja on the other.

We were slowly getting near the third part. The saddle after which almost always bura blows at least a bit. Fortunately for us this time it didn’t, but the temperature was sensibly lower. We also had to put our crampons as the snow was more frozen here.

The hut

We could already see the hut from here, but we still had 2.5 km to go and we were dying to see the sunset! There was much more snow here and it was such a pleasure walking surrounded by it on all sides. The sun was setting so it wasn’t strong, snow was around us and views as far as your eyes can see. Perfect. Finally, step by step we arrived.

Pume is the Croatians highest hut located at 1630 m and it serves as one of HGSS (Croatian mountain rescue service) operating points. It had all we could need from a shelter and much more if you ask us. Beautiful hut and without a doubt a view to die for.

After a nice cup of hot tea we were blessed with a spectacular sunset. We could watch this every single day forever. What a bedtime story!

Day 2

As mentioned, this is the birth place of bura. It blew the whole night so hard that we felt its force on the shelter walls. In the morning it blew enough to throw a lighter person into a fence. At that point we still considered continuing to Troglav.

30 mins later, bura lifted the snow dust and covered the whole area. Our visibility reached no more than 10 m. Unfortunately we had to cancel our ascent and head back. Needless to say that without gaiters and crampons this would have been a very tricky descent. Besides, you shouldn’t even consider not bringing them in the first place. We waited a bit until the snow dust settles to start the hike down.

It can be annoying sometimes, but it is a valuable experience and part of the mountain folklore. We were reaching the saddle where the wind weakens a bit and enjoyed the views as now we faced the other direction.

Just like we figured, the wind weakened after the saddle and we could take some clothes and soon the crampons and gaiters off. Now all we had to do is to enjoy the Peruča lake for the next 6 km. Tough job.

Once we hit the forest the views stopped. Soon after the dirt road began and needless to say it wasn’t our favourite part since our feet were already a bit sore. Nonetheless we walked those 3 boring kilometres exchanging our thoughts and commenting all the seen beauty.

Despite not being as dynamic as Velebit or having its surroundings alter constantly, Dinara is absolutely beautiful. Different trails and sides of this massive mountain offer different experiences very much worth the walk. We hope you enjoyed our blog and maybe we gave you a push towards visiting this old beauty.

On our last Velebit trip we visited the peak called Sv. Brdo (1751 m). If you haven’t seen it you can check it out here Sv. Brdo: The view that never disappoints. This time we went for a 2 day hike to the highest point of Velebit, the Vaganski peak (1757 m). Although there is only 6 m between them the ambient was very different. As pretty as both trails are, Vaganski peak trail was for us even better.

The hiking trail starts from a place called Veliko Rujno, but to reach Veliko Rujno you require either an off road car or a bit of patience since the road is not the best. We were packed with a lot of patience, so the holes throughout the 6.5 km dirt road we passed with a smile on our face. We parked the car on the side of the road where our trail began and luckily it was there the day after. The trail was 22km in total and not very difficult or steep, so it is recommended to mostly everyone.

DAY 1

Since we knew we would spend the night in a mountain shelter Struge there was no need for an early start. We began our hike at 11:30 and had around 3h of comfortable walk to the shelter. The first part of the trail follows a path through a beautiful autumn like forest. The first day was cloudy, so we had very few sunny moments to take nice photos. But we used our chances.

Morning has its strengths but the sunset always prevails. Nothing beats the golden colours of a setting sun. As the path is very friendly we progress fast. Already within 1.5 hour with all the photo taking we were at half point to the hut. Velebit is a place where you could encounter some wild horses and we were hoping for some. Unfortunately they didn’t show up, but they left hundreds of their smelly regards along the path haha. Cruising through this forest was really relaxing, the ambient and colours were very calming.

Once we hit the clearance from the trees we could see Velika Paklenica canyon. Another national park (since 1949) located in south Velebit called Paklenica combines two stream flow canyons Velika and Mala Paklenica (Big and small Paklenica). Outside the summer time when the water fills the canyons it is very nice to go for a trek following the stream flow. If there is a lot of water then it is best to skip and visit in winter time as it can be very tricky with high and strong flow.

Struge shelter

1.5 km later we arrived at our shelter Struge (1400 m). We still had several hours of light so we used them to collect some dry wood and timber since the previous guest didn’t prepare any for the incoming ones. There are several common sense rules every hiker should follow when visiting huts and shelters:

• Clean the shelter before you leave
• Put things back where they belong
• If you used wood and timber, prepare more for the next hikers if it’s possible. If they are wet, dry them in the stove.
• Do not leave any food that can go bad. Cans are a better option.
• Take the trash with you!

As funny as it may seem, but lot of people don’t follow these rules. There is nothing worse then to enter a messy shelter. Especially in winter time when all you need is some warm fire and there are no woods. If you have the possibility and equipment to do these things, you should. So we managed to collect some dry leaves and after 2h of fighting with the wet timber the fire was finally on. There are few more hygge and cosy images than the one of fire.

To make sure everything doesn’t go according to plan we forgot the candles, so we had to use our headlamps for find our way in the hut. It added to the cosiness. Soon after our delicious dinner we hit the bed as tomorrow Vaganski peak awaited us.

Day 2

Waking up to rays of sunshine hits different, even though the sleep was not the best. It is very difficult to kill the good mood on a mountain.

After a nice morning tea we cleaned the shelter and started our hike for the top. The weather was perfect. A bit chilly, but after few steps warm blood creates the balance. From Struge to Vaganski peak we had around 5 km and 357 m of height gain to cover. Good thing about this trail is that throughout the whole way there were two water sources to restock your water supplies. One in the forest at the start of the trail and one just 20 mins from Struge called Marasovac.

From this point it started getting even more beautiful. 2 km after water resupply we were entering a Lord of the rings like ambient. At least that is how it looked to us. Steep chasms surrounded by vast green colour and skyscraper high reefs. The path that went in a snake looking shape was disappearing between smaller peaks in the distance. All that within next 2.5 km. Stunningly beautiful.

The Vaganski peak

Pictures speak more than words and we don’t think there are words to describe all this. 70 m still to the top and we couldn’t wait to have our lunch and a nice warm cup of tea with the whole horizon on our hands. Last time we were looking at the Vaganski peak from Sv. Brdo, but this time it’s the other way around and we were dying to see it. Take a look at these views.

We were speechless. These views were spectacular. Sitting there connected with nature and soaking each millimetre of endless views all around us. We truly didn’t want to leave. Maybe we are not objective, but so far the prettiest landscape we have seen. After taking as much as possible from these sights we had to head back. 10.5 km was not a lot and especially not on this terrain.

Half way in the return around the same spot where we could see the Velika Paklenica canyon we noticed an interesting rock that could be a potentially very good photo spot. What do you think?

As if this trip was just getting better and better. Sun was slowly setting, so after an hour of enjoying this crazy photo session we headed back. Colours were getting warmer and warmer with each minute. The best way to end a hiking trip is a nice sunset. As we entered the last piece of the trail and got in the forest, that autumn look kicked in again.

And with that this trip was finished. We had absolutely an amazing time. One to remember. We hope you enjoyed our blog trip and these photos at least a fraction of how much we did. Thank you for reading and stay tuned for some future hygge trails of beautiful Croatia.

When global warming hits so hard that none of Croatian mountains have snow in late December, you have to become resourceful. There is a saying “if the mountain won’t come to Muhammad, then Muhammad must go to the mountain”, and we did exactly that. Since snow doesn’t want to come to us, we will go out and find it! For this beautiful, but unfortunately only one day trip, we decided to finally visit the Julian Alps of Slovenia. A stunning Triglav National park located in the north-west Slovenia was our last hope of “nearby” snow. Unfortunately Tess couldn’t join me on this trip, so I invited my brother instead.

Going from Split we would have around 6h of driving, but we decided to spend the night in Ljubljana. Having a beer and then early in the morning head for the mountain seemed like a good idea.

mountain day

We woke up at 7, had breakfast and hit the road. One hour away from Ljubljana we reached Triglav National Park. There is no entry fee, so we just parked the car alongside the road. Weather forecast for first half of the day was mostly sun and for the other part cloudy and foggy. Therefore we wanted to use the morning as much as possible.

The trail itself was not very difficult. Total of 9 km and 30% of it follows the ski-lift. Because of snow and ice presence ice gaiters and crampons were a must! It made the incline much easier and kept us safe. Our original plan was a circle tour Vojašnica – Viševnik – Jezerca viewpoint – Koča on Konjščica – Vojašnica, but due to snow covering all the trails beyond Viševnik peak and bad weather coming towards us we didn’t want to risk it and possibly ruin a very nice day.

Entering a beautiful tall pine tree forest where rays of sun lit up the snow around us felt very peaceful and it slowly guided us in the hike. As the trail wasn’t that long we decided to let the pictures talk.

The trail got a bit steeper after the ski-lift so crampons were needed since the snow turned into ice. Crampons are spikes mounted on hiking boots. The scenery along the trail was without a doubt breath taking. The combination of mountains surrounding the trees really gave the glimpses of the Alpes look.

4 km in we reached a new 90 degree turn towards the peak Viševnik at 1780 m altitude located just beside another peak on our left side called Plesišče (1801 m). We walked 200 m more and made a short break to enjoy the views and take some photos.

The Viševnik peak

The way up was trampled by the tracks of people so using GPS was not needed. Once we reached Viševnik the most amazing scene just opened in front of us. A 360 degree view of the whole area was more than words could describe. Right in front of us the peak Mali Draški Vrh (2132m) stood proudly and to the left was the big papa of Slovenia, the Triglav peak (2864m). Triglav was covered by clouds so we couldn’t see it clearly, but we hope that we will visit the highest point of Slovenia some time soon too.

We realized it was time to finish our tea with views and head back since the clouds were coming at us fast. We decided to give the circle trail a shot. About 200m after we saw that everything was covered in deep snow and it wasn’t the right time for testing our luck. It was a steep descent and we didn’t know exactly where the trail was, so we took the same way back.

Many footsteps were erased by skis so we had to be careful where we step not to fall in, but the way down was fast and easy. This trip was spectacular in all its views and nature. We could not recommend it more. True soul food that people like us always seek more and more. The day was slowly coming to an end, so we said goodbye to this beautiful nature rich country. Plenty more trips are ahead of us including Slovenia too, so stay close for more hygge trails.