Similar to Dinara, it shares the general landscapes with wide open grass fields throughout the whole hike.

The route

The starting point was a parking lot at Donja Korita. Roughly 40 min drive from Split through places Dicmo, Trilj and Grab to finish it off with a dirt road that reaches a T-cross section with the parking lot on the left side and a another dirt road to the right. You can leave the car at the parking lot, but if you have a bit higher suspension car it is possible to continue down the road where you reach a dead end and saving cca 2.5 km of a boring-ish walk.

After passing a small water fountain the trail begins. That is also the only spot on the trail for a water refill, so it is important to take it in consideration.

The start

As mentioned above, the 2.5 km after the parking lot is a typical dirt road surrounded by small hills. It is not so bad at when starting, but quite boring when returning. We happened to be very lucky to run into an older local guy who gladly gave us a lift to the water fountain. All he wanted in exchange was a blowj…. just a conversation to waste some time. He was very funny, kind and a bit special as they do get in those areas. It is hard to get the idea if you are not a local.

We started the hike and the beginning was quite nice in the valley. The trail wasn’t difficult and the markations were clearly visible. After the first couple kilometers the trail enters start to climb up entering the vast pastures. That part was nothing special, at moments a bit boring but it all starts to pay off once we got closer to the ridge.

At one point, just below the ridge there is a T cross section. The turn left leads to the highest point of Kamešnica in Croatia called “Kamešnica” or “Kurljaj” and the right turn leads to our todays goal, the peak Konj. Konj is the highest peak of Kamešnica mountain and is located in Bosnia and Hercegovina. From that point on all we had to do is follow the ridge straight to Konj.

The peak – Konj (Horse)

After 10 km and cca 5h we reached Konj (1856m). The views really were spectacular. a 360 view of Buško lake, mountains Dinara, Biokovo, Čvrsnica, Mosor and many other. Of course we took some time for a photo shoot, but had to do it fast as thick clouds were catching up behind us.

DEsCENt

As the weather itself wasn’t sure of its next move we started to descent. It happened to be that one the way down we saw the best views of the day. A structured group of rocks looking like some medieval fortress. Absolutely stunning. Could you imagine a better spot for some music video stage or crowning the new king of Gondor? Hardly…

We took our time as if it was really spectacular and not really noticeable when we were ascending. This different angle made the world of difference.

We finished the whole trail of 21km in 9h. The trail is not that difficult and could easily be done much faster, but obviously the photography took its toll. Considering the landscapes we didn’t mind at all! Kamešnica proved to be very interesting and beautiful. And we believe it might be even better during the winter.

Until next time,
Hygge Trails of Croatia

As always, I checked the weather forecast several times before the trip, including the night before. All forecasts have foreseen sunshine throughout the day with only a bit of clouds early in the morning. Since I had to drive cca 1.5h I counted on the clouds disappearing by the time I get there.

The route

The starting point was a parking spot by a mountain home Glavaš. From there the path followed a comfortable trail to an old abandoned shelter called Martinove košare (Martin’s baskets). The path continued through vast fields of picturesque Dinaric grass towards the steep section just below the peak. The rocky zig-zag incline started there that took me to the Sinjal/Dinara peak.

The route down from the top was a very straightforward one, descending on the south side and going in parallel with the famous Dinara cliffs. Further down the trail was another mountain shelter “Drago Grubać” after which the 2 trails met at a junction that lead back to start.

Morning

Driving in the car I noticed heavy grey and black clouds dominating in the sky. I thought to myself “the weather forecast people have fucked it up again…”. The enthusiasm was still high as I had another hour of drive so I consoled myself it could still change. Cca 1h later I was sitting in the car waiting for the bloody rain to stop. It was yet another evidence that the mountain forecast has to be taken with a reservation.

30 mins have passed and I was finally on my way. Since I was alone I could set my own pace to make up for the lost time. The first spot that definitely deserved a pause for observation was a medieval fortress.

The Dinarić aka Glavaš fortress built in the 15th century. It was built when the Ottoman invasion was very much expected. Dinarić fortress was a chain link of nearby fortresses in the Vrlika area. Another two are “Prozor” located above the Vrlika town while “Potravnik” sits in the south end of Peruča lake.

The weather was again going for the worse. Thick fog filled the valley and the rain started to drizzle again. I continued further because I have a decent gear, but hiking in rain is no fun especially if you have photo equipment.

Just when I thought “ok, I can handle this drizzle” it started pouring heavily and I had no choice but to hurry to the nearest shelter. The shelter that gave me the break from rain was called “Martinove košare”. It felt nice not being wet while cursing at everything alive and dead, weather forecasts and my bad luck. In the middle of my juiciest curse I got interrupted by few fellow hikers looking for a dry spot too.

We chatted for 30 mins and just when I was about to call it a day the rain stopped, heavy fog cleared up a bit and just like that my plans changed. I went all in with a ridiculously fast tempo to make up for the lost time. The only good thing about the fog was that it made scenery look very mystical, which is always a good thing (…unless you get lost, then it’s a thriller). But the mountains really get a special vibe in these conditions.

All the way from Martinove košare until the last section the weather served me fine, but of course just when I needed it to be good it went for the worse. The last incline had poor markings because the paint had faded away, so hikers used nearby stones to build cones for better visualisation of the route. All that goes down the drain when a thick fog swallows your sight and you are not able to see 3 m ahead.

Luckily I had my GPS watch with a preloaded GPX trail. I could not stress enough how important and valuable that small piece of technology is , especially in situations like that. Without it, I would have been lost.

This, honestly speaking shitty photo, just serves as an evidence of how thick the fog was and that I have actually reached the top. Good news were that the way down was much better.

AFTERNOON

I had no reason to stay on top for long as I could not see anything. It was heavily blowing, I was wearing crampons due to frozen snow below the peak, so I just wanted to get myself in a more visible and comfortable surroundings. For the next 30 mins the fog was still blocking the views all around me, but I could clearly see in a radius of 20m. At one point as I got beneath the cloud it all opened up right in front of me.

I might have not seen much before, but this has made it all worth it. The colour contrast of the unique Dianara grass and the distant dark fields, Peruča lake and other parts of Dinara was beautiful. Now I could slow down completely, take my time and enjoy the tranquillity of the ambient . I was not far away from start, so I had nowhere to hurry. Finally it was time for the drone. Take a minute to watch the video for a better understanding of the place.

I was just roaming around for 2 hours, taking shots and admiring the landscape, but then it was time to go on. Not much further ahead, another shelter was awaiting called Drago Grubać. The shelter got its name after a Croatian soldier and a mountaineer who passed away in 2016.

Evening

There was not much left to finish the trail, so I had to cherish every view. And I sure had something to glaze upon as the sun was setting. Only thing left to do was to sit back and observe the magic. The whole Vrlika area was on the palm of my hand. Breathtaking sight.

A crazy day full of turnarounds. All in all it ended amazing and Dinara showed herself in a completely different face to what I have experienced so far. When I approached the car parked by the mountain home, there was one someone so happy that I have returned. He has sent me off to the mountain in the morning and welcomed me back at night. A real good boy (he stole my sock).

One of Croatia’s most beautiful and by far roughest and harshest mountains. Its combination of steep reefs and the sea they fall straight into is a unique sight for eyes. The very things that make it breathtaking and picturesque are the same ones that can put your life in danger. Not to exaggerate, this is not Matterhorn or Mt. Everest by all means, but Biokovo is seriously underestimated. A lot of foreign “hikers” approach it as a walk in the park. More often than not they end up with a Croatian mountain rescue service phone number on their screen.

It is a very steep, rocky and dry (few water refill spots) mountain. The most frequent issues are dehydration, sliding down the accumulations of rock debris or spraining an ankle due to uneven terrain. On many places the markings are very bad. They either faded out, burned down due to fire, got hidden by rocks due to earthquake or just got abandoned by the local mountaineering association. Therefore it is necessary to get all the information of the trail you want to use. Not to forget, check if there are any water sources along the path. That being said, Biokovo is undoubtably stunning!

The route

This time we decided to finally go to Sv. Ilija peak and as always we try to spend 2 days anywhere we go. We had few doubts before the trip, whether to sleep in a tent or to sleep in a shelter. Since we knew that the way up would be steep, for carry-on weight reasons we decided to spend the night in the shelter on the way up. In the following morning we reached the peak Sv. Ilija and then went back to our start in a small place called Bast.

The trail was 15.7 km long and it took us around 8.5h (across 2 days) of walking. Of course, due to taking photos and videos it lasted longer than it normally would. Without that part it could have been comfortable 7h, for us. We made sure we have enough water (3L each) due to sunny weather, steep terrain and Biokovo’s lack of sources of water along the trails. Even though we knew there was one by the shelter, we played it safe.

Day 1

Morning

Everything about this trip was in hurry and so was our start. We left Split at 11.20, hit the highway and were at Bast near Makarska at 12:30. We parked the car on the parking lot basically at the beginning of Bast. 10 mins after we were on our way. By the way Bast is one very cute little place in the foots of Biokovo.

From Bast there are two ways to Sv. Ilija. One to the right through Osičine and one to the left through quarry (rock excavation pit). The one through the quarry is probably the hardest and steepest classical hiking trail in Croatia. Originally we were planning on taking that one but due to the lack of time as we started late we chose Osičine which is a bit milder route. The beginning of the trail passes by the church and enters the forest between local houses on a narrow path. As we started getting higher and higher over the rock debris the view started to get better and better.

For those who don’t know or remember, there was a big fire on Biokovo 1.5 year ago. It destroyed large amount of pine tree forest and several marking posts located on trees. 90% of those big logs are still laying there on and off the hiking trail. So apart from not only being steep, the trail was also covered with tree logs to hop over. On the next cross section we turned left for “Kuća”.

Eveninng

We were loosing the sun here and realized that we would finish the hike with barely any light left, but nonetheless we welcomed the beautiful sunset with open arms. There are very few things if any, prettier than a mountain sunset with a sea view. This one is pretty hard to beat.

It was very hard to look away from this scene, so unfortunately after good 15 mins we had to continue forward to our shelter. From the small hunters cabin we turned right and 12 mins later on the next crossroad (we forgot to take a photo) we continued straight and that took us to our shelter located beneath the peak Korenik. The area is known as “Radića stanovi” which are old shepherd houses where people used to bring their cattle for pasture.

Needless to say how absolutely overwhelming the feeling is, when you have finished your first day of hike and all you have to do at that point is to sit back and relax. Relax in peace and quiet with the best piece of art there is just above your head for as far as your eyes can see…

Day 2

Rise and shine. It was time to head to Sv. Ilija peak. The weather was absolutely perfect, even too good for December. Backpack on, camera in place and we were ready to go. Since we slept in the less sunny north side it was a bit chilly in the shade, but luckily there were gaps where the sun rays could reach us, so they kept us warm until we crossed back to the south side again.

Our next stop was “Matijaševića stanovi”. Another set of old shepherd houses and this one looked just as impressive. A complex of drystone house ruins and yet you could still see and feel the soul of the place. The image in my head of how this little stone village looked like hundred years ago was very beautiful, unobtrusive and in complete sync with the environment.

10 meters from this spot was another sign for water source, but as we already had enough we did not need a refill. Also, we heard that it was not the cleanest and safest water to drink, so use it as a last resort.

After 1.5h we reached our goal, the Sv. Ilija peak located at 1642m. The views that arose on all sides were really spectacular. The sky as clear as it can get, temperature around 14 degrees and comfortable breeze that every now and then turns into a gust. Textbook example of a perfect weather on a perfect mountain. Bioko just like Velebit, acts like a climate separator as the sea side has sensitively different micro climate compared to the one on the other. But we were on the top, getting the best from both worlds.

As always, mesmerising views, the ones that Biokovo never lacks in. Overwhelming and unique combination of sea and sharp and aggressive mountains always has a more powerful and admirable look. Sunrises, sunsets, old drystone shepherd houses, cool shelters and beautiful scenery. Biokovo has it all!

Last time we went to Vaganski peak and in case you missed it you can find it on this link . But this time we wanted to experience Velebit in the snow. We chose an already familiar trail without the snow, which is Sv. Brdo. If you want to compare the 2 opposite atmospheres check our Velebit – Sv. Brdo: The View that Never Disappoints. Honestly, they are both amazing and there is no wrong choice (but we do prefer the snow more).

The plan

The starting point was Malo Libinje. To reach Malo Libinje takes about 16 km after exiting the highway including around 9 km of dirt road. Total trail length was 16 km and it took us 8h to finish it, but we stopped a lot. It was a circle trail starting from Malo Libinje – Vlaški grad – Sv. Brdo – Dušice – Debelo Brdo – Malo Libinje. The trail overall is not very difficult, but obviously snow makes it more challenging as we needed crampons and gaiters at some places where the snow was deep and a bit frozen.

Morning

After 9 km of bouncing up and down on a dirty road we reached Malo Libinje. A beautiful area of wide fields where cows enjoy their morning grass breakfast in the foothills of Velebit reefs. One simply doesn’t even need to go further but to stay here and soak in the intact nature with all senses.

Velebit hits from very start. Beauty to the maximum and it never stops. We passed the cute cows on the grass fields and started going up slowly. Unfortunately we did not run into wild horses which are common in these areas, but maybe next time. The weather was very nice with full sun, so a sunscreen was a must. There was no snow in this part so we were going pretty fast, but Velebit always makes you stop to admire something.

2 km before Vlaški grad (the hut) we started seeing traces of snow and that was an introduction to a completely different vibe that awaited us. Every nature trip regardless how nice it is gets even better if animals appear. We were lucky enough to witness several deer just casually roaming around the area looking for food.

Parallel with the deer we got closer to Vlaški grad. The first time we took this path we covered it during night time and therefore didn’t even see this part of trail until this day. It was a very cute path and definitely not worth missing out on.

Afternoon

Right after the hut we took a turn to the right and hiked up the small steep hill. As we went around it the wind started to blow a bit and the snow was deeper, so we changed our shoes and put on the gaiters.

Few meters after, the view of the Sv. Brdo (The Holy Hill) hit us with such beauty. We remember it without the snow so now it was a completely different look and damn, it sure looked nice.

For comparison purposes we put an image from the last time without the snow and now. The same spot, two different looks and we would say 60:40 in favour of snow.

Halfway on the uphill before the peak beautiful views opened up and we could not ignore them.

What to add more after these photos. Pure nirvana and we wished it never ends. Even the peak wasn’t that important anymore because this is what we came for. We wouldn’t change it for anything. Still, we had to continue because the day was not that long and we used a lot of time by admiring the scenery from the peak.

Evening

Wind got stronger on the top so we didn’t stay for long, but enough to enjoy the views. Titled as the best in Croatia, it certainly lives up to its name. Adriatic sea, Tulove grede, mountain peaks on all sides and islands leave everyone speechless. Time didn’t go in our favour so we continued our walk towards Dušice (Little souls) on the steep south-west reef under Sv. Brdo.

Dušice are a sand dune looking kind of small hummocks covered with grass, but this time with extra layer of snow. It is such a cute place, ideal for kids to play around.

10 mins from Dušice hummocks we reached the shelter Dušice. Definitely convenient if you get caught by night or harsh weather and the hut is not bad at all.

Sun was going down fast and we still had 5 km to go. there was no sun but there was still light. Until we hit the clearance before the Debelo brdo (The Fat hill). Not only we got sun but we got the best sunset you could imagine. Nothing beats a nice sunset especially when finishing a hiking day. Get ready for this…

1h later we were in the car sitting and still heavily impressed by the orange soul food called sunset. What an amazing trip. Velebit will always have a special place in our heart and with full right. We hope we managed to transfer at least a portion of the cosiness of this hygge trail of Velebit. Thank you and stay tuned for more.

Natural 84 km border between Croatia and Bosnia and Hercegovina, the youngest member of “Park of nature” category (since 2021) and the highest mountain in Croatia. Dinara is positioned between the river Cetina in the SW and Livanjsko Polje in the NE. The highest peak (Troglav – 1913 m) of the massive Dinara is located on a mountain Troglav, one of the 3 mountains (Dinara, Kamešnica and Troglav) that create this massive and is located in BiH. Croatians highest point lays on the mountain Dinara and it is called Sinjal (1831 m).

It is mostly recognized for its curvy grass fields, tall and wide eastern cliffs and its absence of trees. It is also famous for the wind bura that often blows hard in this areas. Compared to Velebit for example or Biokovo it is less attractive, but believe us when we say that Dinara has its charm.

Our plan

Our plan for this hike was to reach the highest point, Troglav. Unfortunately, due to very strong bura we had to cancel our ascent to the top on the 2nd day. Even though a bit disappointed we were very happy with our hygge night at the Pume shelter nonetheless.

As we have walked this trail few times before we knew what to expect in terms of terrain and weather. The trail in total was around 24km and in general not very difficult. We could divide it in 3 parts. The first one through the woods, second on the steeper more open terrain and the third follows the wide grass hills to the hut.

Day 1

We started the hike at 10 o’ clock from a small village called Ježević. To the shelter Pume it takes 4.5-6h depending on the tempo. We had enough time so we took it slow and enjoyed the weather. Dinara is huge and very massive. It showed us that at the very start when we stood in front of it. The first part followed the dirt road for 2 km and one portion of it can be covered with a regular car.

After 2 km of dirt road we entered the forest part. The trail was nicely marked with renewed old markings. Also there were new educational boards since the last time we have been here. The weather was perfect, 18 degrees and full sun. Knowing the weather on Dinara, it was unquestionable that snow and bura would cool us down later on.

After Dinara, The Dinarides continue with a mountain called Kamešnica. Another part of the Croatian – Bosnian border. Majority of it lays in BiH with its highest peak at 1856 m called Konj (Horse). The highest point on the Croatian side is called Glavaš (1308 m). We had a pretty good view of it throughout the whole trip indeed.

After the forest, the path goes on in serpentines to cancel out the steeper incline of this part. From here we could see the whole Vrlika area. The artificial Peruča lake layed in the the foothills of Dinara on one side while having mountain Svilaja on the other.

We were slowly getting near the third part. The saddle after which almost always bura blows at least a bit. Fortunately for us this time it didn’t, but the temperature was sensibly lower. We also had to put our crampons as the snow was more frozen here.

The hut

We could already see the hut from here, but we still had 2.5 km to go and we were dying to see the sunset! There was much more snow here and it was such a pleasure walking surrounded by it on all sides. The sun was setting so it wasn’t strong, snow was around us and views as far as your eyes can see. Perfect. Finally, step by step we arrived.

Pume is the Croatians highest hut located at 1630 m and it serves as one of HGSS (Croatian mountain rescue service) operating points. It had all we could need from a shelter and much more if you ask us. Beautiful hut and without a doubt a view to die for.

After a nice cup of hot tea we were blessed with a spectacular sunset. We could watch this every single day forever. What a bedtime story!

Day 2

As mentioned, this is the birth place of bura. It blew the whole night so hard that we felt its force on the shelter walls. In the morning it blew enough to throw a lighter person into a fence. At that point we still considered continuing to Troglav.

30 mins later, bura lifted the snow dust and covered the whole area. Our visibility reached no more than 10 m. Unfortunately we had to cancel our ascent and head back. Needless to say that without gaiters and crampons this would have been a very tricky descent. Besides, you shouldn’t even consider not bringing them in the first place. We waited a bit until the snow dust settles to start the hike down.

It can be annoying sometimes, but it is a valuable experience and part of the mountain folklore. We were reaching the saddle where the wind weakens a bit and enjoyed the views as now we faced the other direction.

Just like we figured, the wind weakened after the saddle and we could take some clothes and soon the crampons and gaiters off. Now all we had to do is to enjoy the Peruča lake for the next 6 km. Tough job.

Once we hit the forest the views stopped. Soon after the dirt road began and needless to say it wasn’t our favourite part since our feet were already a bit sore. Nonetheless we walked those 3 boring kilometres exchanging our thoughts and commenting all the seen beauty.

Despite not being as dynamic as Velebit or having its surroundings alter constantly, Dinara is absolutely beautiful. Different trails and sides of this massive mountain offer different experiences very much worth the walk. We hope you enjoyed our blog and maybe we gave you a push towards visiting this old beauty.

On our last Velebit trip we visited the peak called Sv. Brdo (1751 m). If you haven’t seen it you can check it out here Sv. Brdo: The view that never disappoints. This time we went for a 2 day hike to the highest point of Velebit, the Vaganski peak (1757 m). Although there is only 6 m between them the ambient was very different. As pretty as both trails are, Vaganski peak trail was for us even better.

The hiking trail starts from a place called Veliko Rujno, but to reach Veliko Rujno you require either an off road car or a bit of patience since the road is not the best. We were packed with a lot of patience, so the holes throughout the 6.5 km dirt road we passed with a smile on our face. We parked the car on the side of the road where our trail began and luckily it was there the day after. The trail was 22km in total and not very difficult or steep, so it is recommended to mostly everyone.

DAY 1

Since we knew we would spend the night in a mountain shelter Struge there was no need for an early start. We began our hike at 11:30 and had around 3h of comfortable walk to the shelter. The first part of the trail follows a path through a beautiful autumn like forest. The first day was cloudy, so we had very few sunny moments to take nice photos. But we used our chances.

Morning has its strengths but the sunset always prevails. Nothing beats the golden colours of a setting sun. As the path is very friendly we progress fast. Already within 1.5 hour with all the photo taking we were at half point to the hut. Velebit is a place where you could encounter some wild horses and we were hoping for some. Unfortunately they didn’t show up, but they left hundreds of their smelly regards along the path haha. Cruising through this forest was really relaxing, the ambient and colours were very calming.

Once we hit the clearance from the trees we could see Velika Paklenica canyon. Another national park (since 1949) located in south Velebit called Paklenica combines two stream flow canyons Velika and Mala Paklenica (Big and small Paklenica). Outside the summer time when the water fills the canyons it is very nice to go for a trek following the stream flow. If there is a lot of water then it is best to skip and visit in winter time as it can be very tricky with high and strong flow.

Struge shelter

1.5 km later we arrived at our shelter Struge (1400 m). We still had several hours of light so we used them to collect some dry wood and timber since the previous guest didn’t prepare any for the incoming ones. There are several common sense rules every hiker should follow when visiting huts and shelters:

• Clean the shelter before you leave
• Put things back where they belong
• If you used wood and timber, prepare more for the next hikers if it’s possible. If they are wet, dry them in the stove.
• Do not leave any food that can go bad. Cans are a better option.
• Take the trash with you!

As funny as it may seem, but lot of people don’t follow these rules. There is nothing worse then to enter a messy shelter. Especially in winter time when all you need is some warm fire and there are no woods. If you have the possibility and equipment to do these things, you should. So we managed to collect some dry leaves and after 2h of fighting with the wet timber the fire was finally on. There are few more hygge and cosy images than the one of fire.

To make sure everything doesn’t go according to plan we forgot the candles, so we had to use our headlamps for find our way in the hut. It added to the cosiness. Soon after our delicious dinner we hit the bed as tomorrow Vaganski peak awaited us.

Day 2

Waking up to rays of sunshine hits different, even though the sleep was not the best. It is very difficult to kill the good mood on a mountain.

After a nice morning tea we cleaned the shelter and started our hike for the top. The weather was perfect. A bit chilly, but after few steps warm blood creates the balance. From Struge to Vaganski peak we had around 5 km and 357 m of height gain to cover. Good thing about this trail is that throughout the whole way there were two water sources to restock your water supplies. One in the forest at the start of the trail and one just 20 mins from Struge called Marasovac.

From this point it started getting even more beautiful. 2 km after water resupply we were entering a Lord of the rings like ambient. At least that is how it looked to us. Steep chasms surrounded by vast green colour and skyscraper high reefs. The path that went in a snake looking shape was disappearing between smaller peaks in the distance. All that within next 2.5 km. Stunningly beautiful.

The Vaganski peak

Pictures speak more than words and we don’t think there are words to describe all this. 70 m still to the top and we couldn’t wait to have our lunch and a nice warm cup of tea with the whole horizon on our hands. Last time we were looking at the Vaganski peak from Sv. Brdo, but this time it’s the other way around and we were dying to see it. Take a look at these views.

We were speechless. These views were spectacular. Sitting there connected with nature and soaking each millimetre of endless views all around us. We truly didn’t want to leave. Maybe we are not objective, but so far the prettiest landscape we have seen. After taking as much as possible from these sights we had to head back. 10.5 km was not a lot and especially not on this terrain.

Half way in the return around the same spot where we could see the Velika Paklenica canyon we noticed an interesting rock that could be a potentially very good photo spot. What do you think?

As if this trip was just getting better and better. Sun was slowly setting, so after an hour of enjoying this crazy photo session we headed back. Colours were getting warmer and warmer with each minute. The best way to end a hiking trip is a nice sunset. As we entered the last piece of the trail and got in the forest, that autumn look kicked in again.

And with that this trip was finished. We had absolutely an amazing time. One to remember. We hope you enjoyed our blog trip and these photos at least a fraction of how much we did. Thank you for reading and stay tuned for some future hygge trails of beautiful Croatia.

We chose a beautiful, but quite physically demanding trail. In short, the plan was a 2 day circle hike while passing the Napoleon trail to begin with. By following the Bukovac trail we would reach Šćirovac peak in the afternoon and spend the night in the magical mountain hut PS Pakline to finish off the day. The return to the car was planned for the next day, saving the easiest part for last.

DAY 1

MORNING

Since we were driving from Split we didn’t have to head out too early. There is around 1h to Brela, so we left Split at 7 and arrived around 8. We parked the car in the bushes on the side of a dirt road, took our gear and crossed ourselves in the hope to find the car on the way back.

We started the hike through a small pine tree forest just to come out before a piece of Croatian history. A civil engineering breakthrough of the 19th century called “The Napoleon road”. During a short, but engineeringly effective Napoleon’s reign over Croatia, the French started building. To connect Dalmatia with other parts of the country they came up with a new way of road making. This is one of the best preserved examples of the French road engineering.

Our path onwards took us mainly through the woods and forest for the next 4 km, so we decided to enjoy the view a bit with some photo session.

From the Napoleon road we took the path towards the chapel of Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas) through a pine tree forest. There is something about those walks under the green pines high enough to create a shade, but their canopy thin enough to still feel the sun. In addition to that, these pine trees had a unique look. They had a wide canopy and not only that, but they were very short. The resin from those trees is called paklina hence the hut’s name Pakline.

AFTERNOON

Upon arrival at the chapel of Sv. Nikola on a small hill Prirovac (527 m) we passed around 4.7 km and still had 13 km to go for the day. The chapel was built in the 14th century in the name of the protector of Brela Sv. Nikola, so it felt like a good spot for another short break before peak Bukovac.

Whenever you are surrounded with views on all sides, every 10 m feel like a whole new view. That is how we felt like on Biokovo. In fact each new step gave us something new to process. Next 3 km we covered 600 m of height straight to the “T” intersection. We took a turn to the peak Bukovac (1,262 m) because those views should not be missed. This obviously gave us a boost for the remaining of the day and we sure did need it.

We went back to the T intersection where we now chose Šćirovac. The first part was a 300 m of height gain in 1 km of distance (average 33% incline) followed by a relatively easy 1.5 km to Šćirovac. From Šćirovac (1619 m) we could see another two important peeks of Biokovo. The middle one from the left is Sv. Ilija (St. Elijah) and the one with the big radio beacon is the highest point of Biokovo, Sv. Jure.

Biokovo is a true definition of Dalmatia. It is pointy, heavy, aggressive and full of uncomfortable stones both at the beaches at it’s foothills and it’s peeks. Yet, it is so damn beautiful and worth all the sweat and blood. The same you could apply to it’s people because we are Impulsive, hasty and on first impression aggressive. But actually heartful, kind and ready to give our blood if you ask for it.

EVENING

From Širovac we covered almost 1 km of height on a very steep and above all uncomfortable terrain. Some parts reminded us of the steep stairs Smeagoll took Frodo and Sam on their way to Mordor. You could really see and feel why Biokovo is a home to chamois (wild goats). It is not that common to spot chamois or let alone come near it as it will run away over those stones like a cheetah. It is insane how agile and quick they are. But the fortune smiles at us for all the hard work so far…

After reaching Topol (957 m) we had around 500 m to cover before entering our last section and some parts were really steep (up to 60% grade). 700 m prior to the intersection and our final climb gave us many problems with the markings. We lost it several times because of poor marking condition, big rocks that fell of and covered the markings or overgrown bushes. At one point we had to break through the vegetation and hope to find the trail on the other side. We did, thanks to the map on my watch. At that moment we already did 15 km on a relatively rough terrain. We were looking at the final 2.5 km out of which 1 km was a steep incline (40% in average).

After 17 long and tiring kilometres the hut “Pakline” welcomed us with this scenery. There was no better reward. The most golden sun, a hygge hut and sea view to die for. Once again it proves to be true, the best things in life are free. Tired as we were, we enjoyed these views for some time before making a quick dinner and calling it a day. A nice sleep awaited us.

DAY 2

MORNING

Imagine, you wake up in a small hut. You go outside and find birds chirping, sun shining and sea as blue as it gets. Only thing you could add to it is a cup of freshly made coffee to match the view.

We were not in a hurry, so we decided to enjoy this lovely day and chill in the nice weather and nature while exploring the area. Some were reading books in the sun, some sunbathing or enjoying the the tasty dry leftovers from yesterday sandwiches. In a place like this it all tastes like a Michelin star restaurant.

AFTERNOON

Time was to head off and we had an easy 5 km of relaxing and beautiful trail back. It was a good idea to leave this for last as it gave us time to enjoy the walk without heavy breaths. Along the way there were still a lot of amazing scenes like “The hollow rock” (Eye of the Biokovo), cute pine tree forest and amazing sunset views.

EVENING

The mountain told us farewell with this amazing sunset. We really could not have had a better trip. Tired as hell, we soaked up the last rays of sunshine over Omiška Dinara and Adriatic sea in the distance and left Biokovo with the best memories. We are coming back!

Our goal for this trip, a peak called Sveto Brdo (Saint Hill – hence the enlightenment). Sv. Brdo (1,752 m) is Velebit’s second highest peak after Vaganski peak (1,757 m). Even though the height difference is only 5 m they are 5.5 km of air distance apart.

DAY 1

MORNING

We started our day around 8, threw our stuff in the car and took the highway to heaven. Around 2h later we reached our spot and this is where it got interesting.

We parked at the completely wrong place (Tulove grede) and only realized that…..5 hours and 11 kilometres later! We took the wrong turn because we automatically headed towards Tulove grede as we have been there few times before. We just committed a well known human brain fart! Luckily, it was one of those trips when things turn up for the best no matter what.

Tulove grede is a karst reef located in park nature of Velebit. This limestone reef goes up to 1.1 km above sea level. The view from above is just as amazing as the sight of Tulove grede itself.

Those interested in film industry and western movies maybe recognize this place as here the famous movie Winnetou was shot. A film based on the Karl May’s novel about an Indian chief Winnetou from the Apache tribe. Just standing here surrounded by the scenery of high and steep reefs and untouched nature makes you really feel the atmosphere of the Apache chief’s wild west.

It was time for us to start walking fast as we were surprised how far we were from our sleeping spot (not realizing yet the mistake we have made)!

EVENING

We were about to reach a place called “Libinjska kosa” when breath taking views just opened in front of us. We would dare to say orgasmic view. Such an orgasm that your partner would consider it as an adultery. 5h longer walk, but no one was even a bit sorry for it. That also meant that we had to continue our trip to the hut at night time.

After this beautiful sunset we put our head lights on and headed off to the mountain hut. Hiking in night time was fun, but we don’t recommend it – especially alone. Our night hike was indeed peaceful, followed by moonlight and good old politically incorrect humour. 3h and 2 km later we arrived at our destination called “Vlaški grad” located at 1,280 m.

Tired and hungry, we cleaned ourselves up in the old school way. Back in the old days people obviously did it with lemon scent wet wipes and Old spice deodorant. My great grandmother once told me: “my son, always carry Old spice, isotonic drink and Whey protein wherever you go, the God will take care of the rest…” so I did. After some warm soup we hit the bed because we had an early start in the morning to Sv. Brdo.

DAY 2

MORNING

Rise and shine. As we woke up and walked outside on the balcony we… We just stood quiet while looking at the horizon. After breakfast and coffee we were ready to head off to Sv. Brdo and we couldn’t be happier because the day was perfect. Just above the hut there was a nice little steep hill (Vlaški grad) made for a morning wake up walk. From the hut to Sv. Brdo we had approximately 3 km and close to 500 m of elevation gain, so nothing too hard, but definitely a good power walk.

After the hill of Vlaški grad we were looking at a nice 1 km of straight and comfortable walk on the soft ground through short bushes. In the distance we could see the steep uphill that will take us just under Sv. Brdo. We looked at the people in the distance going up the hill surrounded by all the massive bodies of nature and it really put us into perspective of how insanely small we are. Just take a look at the photo below.

As we reached the peak of the hill in front of us we took a small break. It was perfect considering the scenery in the back and the sun that was warming our wind cooled bodies. Ideal moment to have a quick bite before we get to our final short climb and our goal which is just a couple of hundred meters away. Soon after we finally reached it. Considered as one of the most beautiful views in Croatia is exactly this one from Sveto Brdo.

AFTERNOON

While observing the scenery and browsing through the endless view, soaking in the rays of sunshine while eating a two and a half day old chicken sandwich that was just as fresh as a gun powder, we thought to ourselves: “…What more could one possibly need?”. Just beneath us, our eyes glazed upon an area with small hills of such a soft texture and colour. It looked like there was a carpet covering them. That place is called Dušice (eng. Little souls).

After descending from Sv. Brdo we found ourselves in this above all very relaxing environment. A look which resembles that of sand dunes, but covered with soft grass. One might say that being isolated here doesn’t look that bad at all.

From this point we still had 12 km to our car. Along the way we walked through beautiful beech forest that looked beautiful and even scary at one point. Even so, the whole atmosphere was very mystical and pretty due to partial fog coming down.

Velebit mountain was a battlefield during the independence war in Croatia like most of other mountains for that matter. After the war finished, some small areas still have not been inspected for presence of mines. It does not mean that the mines are necessarily there, but the bits which still have not been checked are marked with ribbons and are noticeable by the red signs like on this photo.

After exiting the beech forest we were back on the road that took us to our car. Words can hardly demonstrate the majesty of this place. Velebit without a doubt proved once again to be one of the mountains you simply don’t want to miss out on. And this is just one part of this Croatian’s true gem of nature as it has much more still to offer. Tired, sleepy and filled with priceless memories we entered the car and headed home. While looking through the window we were already thinking about the future trips to Velebit, so stay tuned for more of Hygge Trails of Croatia.