The trail

We left Split very late, so the plan was to get to Dolina Tisovice (Tisovica valley) by an off-road car, walk to the mountain hut Vrutak (cca 2km) and spend the night. The following day we planned on reaching the peaks Otiš and Zelena glava and coming back for a second sleepover. Then the final morning going back to the car and heading off to Split.

The trickiest part was reaching the starting point, Dolina Tisovice. There were 2 ways and the easiest one was getting an off-road 4×4 car transportation as the path was very unfriendly and can often be covered with huge rocks. The trail we chose was short cca 13 km, but we obviously investigated much more and roamed around (not included in the total distance). There was no reason for bringing huge amounts of water as there was a small water well 200m below the hut. That same well can dry out in summer time, so it would be necessary to bring more than 2L then.

Day 1

We left Split around 19:00 which was late considering we had to drive for 2h to Jablanica (BiH), swap the car for an off-road SUV and take another 2h drive to Tisovica valley. We arrived at the valley around 00:30 which is definitely the latest we have ever started a hike, but it was a very relaxing feeling. Hiking at night can be scary and not knowing what surrounds you may be uncomfortable for some. But it can also be incredibly calming, hearing nothing but silence and seeing only mountain shapes in a starry sky. When we arrived at the hut it was almost 2 in the morning and we really needed some sleep and rest before getting up early.

Day 2 – Morning

The most revelatory feeling of hiking through an area in dark is seeing the same area in daylight afterwards. Especially if you have never been there, so you don’t even know what awaits you when you wake up. This was exactly what happened to us. Stepping out of the hut in the morning was one of the best sights for eyes we have ever seen.

Wow, what a fucking view! The massive, bulky and dominant appearance of Prenj was absolutely stunning and we were so eger to start. The backpacks were ready still from last night, so we just hit the road. Our first goal was peak Otiš, probably the most photogenic peak so far. It really stood tall and proud for everyone to see from kilometers away. Otiš is located at 2097m while Zelena glava at 2103m. The weather was basically like a summer day in April. The sun was strong and no one could escape from getting red even with the sun cream, but the snow was cooling us down along the way.

The path was easy and straightforward all until the incline to Otiš peak. We decided to try with a detour as we estimated that we could manage it. It would be faster than the official trail, but it was pretty steep and didn’t have any markings, so we had to be very careful where we step. We reached the first peak, Otiš. Amazing views with the whole Prenj and other mountain ranges on the palm of our hands.

Afternoon

On the way down we saw a group of recreational hikers who decided to follow our way via the detour without a second thought. We encountered them trapped on a very tricky spot. It was a snowy and slippery slope without a possibility to go back, but only up. Needless to say that not one of them had any basic hiking equipment. Walking shoes, sleeveless shirts, no crampons, no iceaxes….nothing. Complete idiots! Luckily for them 2 members of Bosnian Mountain rescue service were in our group who stepped up and helped.

The worst thing is that they weren’t even aware of the fact that they could have been resting in peace now and they just continued as if nothing happened. Regardless, we continued our way to the highest point of Prenj Zelena glava (The Green head)

We put our crampons on our boots and ice-axes in our hands and started the climb up. The snow wasn’t so hard so we had to be careful where and how we step. This part was really amazing and interesting, but going down was just as fun as going up!

Couple hours of the sheer experience of being on the top of Bosnian Himalayas as Prenj is also called and it was time to return. 2 members of our group left so it was only 3 of us going back to the hut. It was one of those chill hikes, no pressure, no running, but just pure embracement of the moment and the place. We took our time on every enjoyable spot and admired the beauty that this mountain radiates with.

Few hundred meters down, the snowy ambient stopped and vibrant spring colours kicked in. Two different worlds and each beautiful in its own way.

Once we got back to the hut we took a quick mountain wash with a cold water and made coffee with the best view. Priceless and yet it was for free. Best things in life are free. After a good rest we continued exploring this area filled with diverse landscapes. Tisovica valley was just a 15 min walk away so that was our next checkpoint.

Evening

Tisova valley was one of the most relaxing places in anture we have visited. The tranquillity this whole area poseses was beyond any word in dictionary. Vast empty green fields just called for a camp night. We were sitting at this table for 1.5h without a worry on our mind. Once we got back to the hut it was time for the cosiest camp fire and a nice plate of gulaš that tucked us right into sleep.

Day 3

It is always difficult to end a hike and heart-breaking to go back to reality. We really didn’t feel like leaving this place at all, so we had to soak every bit of the fresh mountain air we still could.

Tisovica valley is worth seeing countless number of times. As the valley is surrounded with high mountains it feels as if you are being embraced in its arms. One of the best hiking trips ever. Seeing and experiencing this nature for 3 days was priceless. We reckon it won’t be long until we are back Prenj!

Our plan this time was a 3 day hike in Bosnia and Hercegovina (BiH) and for that we chose a mountain called Čvrsnica located in the Park of nature Blidinje.

The trail we had in plan was a circle trail starting from Masna Luka close to Blidinje lake. The path would begin next to a St. Elijah church. The first part goes through dirt road and steep forest until we hit an open area surrounded by small hills. Then goes the T-section where we should take the left turn towards another steep part before the peak Pločno. On the way back the straight path would take us to the hut Vilinac. From there we would visit Hajdučka vrata (The Outlaws doors) and the head back to the start in a circle. All in all around 45 km and with some parts being a bit steep.

DAY 1

MORNING

Sadly, my prettier half couldn’t join me on this trip because she got sick the day before, so I had to find another victim, Luka. We left Split around 7 and already 1h later we drove though a Croatian-BiH border crossing called Kamensko. 1.5h drive further from the border we reached our destination at Masna Luka in Blidinje park. As we came with an old Golf 4 we weren’t too scared about someone stealing the car. On the plus side, the car was parked close to a church, so we counted on a low criminal activity in the area (speaking of the irony).

All jokes aside, the church of Sv. Ilija (St. Elijah) and the whole location was indeed radiating with peacefulness and zen. You could really understand why priests come here for a spiritual renewal. It was 10 o’clock and the sun rays escorted us to the beginning of our little adventure. The trail started behind the church following a 1 km pine tree forest before exiting on a wide dirt road.

10 mins into the road lead us to an intersection where we took a turn into the woods again for the peak Pločno. From that point we had 3 km of relatively steep uphill. We covered 500 m of elevation with 35% incline in average. Along the last bits of the uphill, a vertical, sharp and impossible to ignore reef called Ćužića kuk (1,793 m) appeared on our right side. As if someone just took an axe and cut of its face. A dream for any free climber.

AFTERNOON

Our next 4 km were quite opposite from the previous part. Hygge trail, joyful walk and fast pace over small rocky hills and bushes until we reached our second intersection. We covered 7.5 km in 3.5h so far and despite having only 2.5 km left it was not that easy. Not only were we a bit tired already but also that last incline was quite steep.

As we were going up the serpentines of those last 200 steep meters that seemed like kilometres, one thought was going through our head. Damn that soup from a bag will taste good! The house visible on the top is not a mountain hut, but actually a military base with permanent on duty soldiers. Needless to say that rules of conduct in this area must be followed! Finally, we reached the top and after meeting with the soldiers they allowed us to camp in the vicinity of the base.

EVENING

Before setting our tent and making ourselves like home we took advantage of the remaining sun light to take a few proof photos that we actually were here. It was November after all and the sun does set fast. After a small chat and a thank you to the soldiers for letting us stay around we decided it was time to make our beds. The first row from the stars and without a doubt one of the prettiest sights before bed time.

DAY 2

MORNING

Our morning views were just as captivating. Blue tones in addition to valleys filled with fog really made that fresh morning inhale even tastier. While sipping our tea and coffee we observed the whole atmosphere changing from morning blue to yellow as sun was slowly rising.

With our batteries charged we said goodbye to this amazing view and friendly soldiers. Our next point was the mountain hut Vilinac where we spent our second night. The distance from peak Pločno till Vilinac hut was 10 km and much easier path than the day before.

Steep way down took us back to the intersection where we now chose right towards “Peharovi stanovi”. We took advantage of the easy trail and developed a comfortably fast pace.

AFTERNOON

While going through “Janjičari” area thousand little hills looked like small islands sticking out of the sea. 2.5h into our walk brought us to Peharovi stanovi, a picturesque valley just 40 mins from hut Vilinac.

At last, Vilinac hut. Located bellow the peak Veliki Vilinac (2,113 m) it offered wonderful scenery to experience from its 1,885 m height. Even though our hike for the day was still not finished, it felt nice to sit back and rest. Old sandwiches were out while we took pleasure of the view in front!

Such a unique piece of nature this is. Veliki Kuk (The Great Hip) carries the title as the highest rock on Balkan reaching 1,700 m above sea level. Above all an imposing sight. Once we took our break we left the hut for a short 3 km sightseeing walk. We were headed towards Hajdučka Vrata (The Outlaws door – 2,000 m). Hajdučka Vrata is a natural phenomenon created by the hand of mother nature itself, untouched by the human hand.

Undoubtedly the most impressive view we have seen. Such a magnificent sight. The grandiose canyon of the river Diva Grabovica which is more than 1,600 m deep and 6.2 km long blew our minds away. Easily a place we could sit and admire for weeks. Unfortunately we had to leave already as the day was soon coming to an end.

EVENING

Since the hut can be entered only by making a reservation, we decided to sleep in our tent again since it was fully booked for the weekend. Just when we made peace with a chilly night, a rescue came out of the blue. As we were sitting around the fire, the mountain hut host Sabahudin and his friend Muhamed spotted us from the distance and invited us to join them for the evening in the hut. They came the night before to welcome the group tomorrow and once again showed how amazing people in the mountains are. Another big thanks to them!

DAY 3

MORNING

A cosy and warm night gave us a nice rest for our last day. Before heading back to the car we decided to take a quick look of the Veliki Kuk (The Big hip) as it wasn’t a long walk and we just couldn’t resist. When we left the hut the weather was more or less fine and clear, but 20 mins after the fog just covered the whole area.

Unfortunately we didn’t get the clear view from Veliki Kuk, but the fog gave it a cool mystical look! Now the time was to head back. We had 13 km to cover on the way back so we figured that the last few hundred metres would be at night. After we climbed the Veliki Vilinac peak (2,113 m) just above the Vilinac hut, everything was more or less downhill onwards.

1.5 km after descending from Veliki Vilinac we had some problems with the markings of the trail. Having a watch with a preloaded map helps massively!

AFTERNOON

14:30 and a well deserved lunch break. These food making moments in nature always give off the cosiest energy, don’t they? We still had 3h to go, so 15 min break was all we needed.

Once we reached an open view of our start point it hit us. You all know that feeling when some amazing journey is coming to an end and nostalgy just kicks in. As we were going down the forest path we were sharing our experiences and thoughts about the trip we just did. We lead those “Ahhh you remeber when we saw that…” or “damn that view was fascinating!” conversations all the way to the car. We cannot even put into words how amazing this trip and how beautiful Čvrsnica was in all of the 45 km we did in these 3 days. Bosnia is full of it and we are coming back for more!