The trail

We left Split very late, so the plan was to get to Dolina Tisovice (Tisovica valley) by an off-road car, walk to the mountain hut Vrutak (cca 2km) and spend the night. The following day we planned on reaching the peaks Otiš and Zelena glava and coming back for a second sleepover. Then the final morning going back to the car and heading off to Split.

The trickiest part was reaching the starting point, Dolina Tisovice. There were 2 ways and the easiest one was getting an off-road 4×4 car transportation as the path was very unfriendly and can often be covered with huge rocks. The trail we chose was short cca 13 km, but we obviously investigated much more and roamed around (not included in the total distance). There was no reason for bringing huge amounts of water as there was a small water well 200m below the hut. That same well can dry out in summer time, so it would be necessary to bring more than 2L then.

Day 1

We left Split around 19:00 which was late considering we had to drive for 2h to Jablanica (BiH), swap the car for an off-road SUV and take another 2h drive to Tisovica valley. We arrived at the valley around 00:30 which is definitely the latest we have ever started a hike, but it was a very relaxing feeling. Hiking at night can be scary and not knowing what surrounds you may be uncomfortable for some. But it can also be incredibly calming, hearing nothing but silence and seeing only mountain shapes in a starry sky. When we arrived at the hut it was almost 2 in the morning and we really needed some sleep and rest before getting up early.

Day 2 – Morning

The most revelatory feeling of hiking through an area in dark is seeing the same area in daylight afterwards. Especially if you have never been there, so you don’t even know what awaits you when you wake up. This was exactly what happened to us. Stepping out of the hut in the morning was one of the best sights for eyes we have ever seen.

Wow, what a fucking view! The massive, bulky and dominant appearance of Prenj was absolutely stunning and we were so eger to start. The backpacks were ready still from last night, so we just hit the road. Our first goal was peak Otiš, probably the most photogenic peak so far. It really stood tall and proud for everyone to see from kilometers away. Otiš is located at 2097m while Zelena glava at 2103m. The weather was basically like a summer day in April. The sun was strong and no one could escape from getting red even with the sun cream, but the snow was cooling us down along the way.

The path was easy and straightforward all until the incline to Otiš peak. We decided to try with a detour as we estimated that we could manage it. It would be faster than the official trail, but it was pretty steep and didn’t have any markings, so we had to be very careful where we step. We reached the first peak, Otiš. Amazing views with the whole Prenj and other mountain ranges on the palm of our hands.

Afternoon

On the way down we saw a group of recreational hikers who decided to follow our way via the detour without a second thought. We encountered them trapped on a very tricky spot. It was a snowy and slippery slope without a possibility to go back, but only up. Needless to say that not one of them had any basic hiking equipment. Walking shoes, sleeveless shirts, no crampons, no iceaxes….nothing. Complete idiots! Luckily for them 2 members of Bosnian Mountain rescue service were in our group who stepped up and helped.

The worst thing is that they weren’t even aware of the fact that they could have been resting in peace now and they just continued as if nothing happened. Regardless, we continued our way to the highest point of Prenj Zelena glava (The Green head)

We put our crampons on our boots and ice-axes in our hands and started the climb up. The snow wasn’t so hard so we had to be careful where and how we step. This part was really amazing and interesting, but going down was just as fun as going up!

Couple hours of the sheer experience of being on the top of Bosnian Himalayas as Prenj is also called and it was time to return. 2 members of our group left so it was only 3 of us going back to the hut. It was one of those chill hikes, no pressure, no running, but just pure embracement of the moment and the place. We took our time on every enjoyable spot and admired the beauty that this mountain radiates with.

Few hundred meters down, the snowy ambient stopped and vibrant spring colours kicked in. Two different worlds and each beautiful in its own way.

Once we got back to the hut we took a quick mountain wash with a cold water and made coffee with the best view. Priceless and yet it was for free. Best things in life are free. After a good rest we continued exploring this area filled with diverse landscapes. Tisovica valley was just a 15 min walk away so that was our next checkpoint.

Evening

Tisova valley was one of the most relaxing places in anture we have visited. The tranquillity this whole area poseses was beyond any word in dictionary. Vast empty green fields just called for a camp night. We were sitting at this table for 1.5h without a worry on our mind. Once we got back to the hut it was time for the cosiest camp fire and a nice plate of gulaš that tucked us right into sleep.

Day 3

It is always difficult to end a hike and heart-breaking to go back to reality. We really didn’t feel like leaving this place at all, so we had to soak every bit of the fresh mountain air we still could.

Tisovica valley is worth seeing countless number of times. As the valley is surrounded with high mountains it feels as if you are being embraced in its arms. One of the best hiking trips ever. Seeing and experiencing this nature for 3 days was priceless. We reckon it won’t be long until we are back Prenj!

about the trail

Total of 30km in 2 days made it a medium trail in terms of distance. The start of the trail was a nice, easy and familiar hike. Just below the mountain home Kredarica (2515m) the terrain started getting steeper. The first 2km of the trail were the same as the one we took to Viševnik. If you haven’t checked that one out you can do so on this link.

Except from the last part the trail was completely safe. The via ferrata from Kredarica to the top can be uncomfortable at points depending how well one handles height. It was not physically challenging, but having a big drop on both sides could create shakiness to some. For that reason a harness has to be used as a safety measure!

Day 1

We decided that it would be the best to drive somewhere close to the start of the trail, spend the night and begin the hike early. We found an adorable apartment in a place we would have never come across if it wasn’t for this trip. The place was called Hudajužna and it was an absolute gem of a village that represents everything that Slovenia is. Neatly cut grass with small hills all around the houses and little trails that lead to the top of each hill. There was also a river Bača flowing through the heart of the village while from all sides protected by heavy mountains. Two words for the ambient, soul nirvana.

Day 2

The plan was to reach the Kredarica hut with enough time to spare. Once we get there we would wait until the weather chages to start via ferrata. It took us 1h of drive from Hudajužna to the Hotel Center where our hike began. The weather was perfect with enough clouds to give the shade and enough sun to keep it warm. 2km after, we said goodby to the familiar path and took a left turn towards Triglav. Here the first landscapes of Koče (houses) on Konjšćica mountain appeared to our left side.

Vast fields followed us for majority of the way while green meadows gave off this cozy and relaxing tone. This ambient removes every bit of stress, if one could even have it in such a place. 400m futher down the path we reached an area called Jezerca (Little lakes). The name origins from a small stream that crates a pool of water and by following that stream we reached a higher spot and new admirable landscapes.

We couldn’t but to gaze on an incredibly photogenic peak called Ablanca as we were aproaching our next stop. It was another mountain hut called Vodnikov dom, below a peak named Vernar. It is safe to say that we could sit here for a week.

1h break and we were off again. The terrain started to get a bit steeper and green colours slowly faded away. Brown rocky ground and grey stones was our colour pallete for the rest of the way.

Once we reached Kredarica hut the weather was foggy as expected. We went to our booked room and relaxed until the weather changed, which was around 17 o’clock. Once the fog disappeared we took only the esentialls, the safety harness and the via ferrata could finally begin!

Via ferrata to the summit

The whole experience of climbing via ferrata was beyond exciting. Having that big drop on all sides made that feeling even more intense, but we have to say that it was not that difficult. Some parts were a bit on the edge, but just being focused and relaxed cleared out all danger.

These beautiful creatures made our way to the top even nicer. Every move they made looked so elegant and efortless regadless of the obstacle or the 400m huge hole below their hooves. You cannot beat the natural talent. It took us cca 1h to reach the top aka Aljažev stolp. Nedless to say that the views were breathtaking.

So far our highest peak we have been on and we were proud of it, 2864m! We took a good 1h of soaking in the feelings and sensations that this viewpoint radiates with. As magnificent as it was we didn’t want to climb down in the dark, therefore we hit the road back.

Climbing down felt much easier and we were down in no time. We were that lucky to even experience the warmest sunset as a reward for the hard day.

DAY 3

After a well deserved rest we had the last day in a complete relax mode. Since we already climbed the peak we could just sit outside in the sun and observe the hordes of people doing the via ferrata. Just a reminder, the Kredarica mountain hut can accommodate 300 people and it was full this weekend. 70% of them aimed for Sunday so we dodged a bullet by going the day before.

The clear sky indicated it would be very hot later, so we decided to head back while the temperature was still ok.

Last sips of tea in our favourite mug and of we go!

As expected we were going fast downhill, so we had some time to spare for a photo or two. The scenery in Triglav national park was absolutely gorgeous. Whatever you set your eyes on locks them for 2 minutes.

And just like that, our trip came to an end. Not gonna lie, we were so sad when we reached the car. Unforgettable experience filled with stunning landscapes, exciting via ferrata, loads of fun and great people. So many more amazing trails are located within Triglav park that just call out for visiting. And we most definitely will!

When global warming hits so hard that none of Croatian mountains have snow in late December, you have to become resourceful. There is a saying “if the mountain won’t come to Muhammad, then Muhammad must go to the mountain”, and we did exactly that. Since snow doesn’t want to come to us, we will go out and find it! For this beautiful, but unfortunately only one day trip, we decided to finally visit the Julian Alps of Slovenia. A stunning Triglav National park located in the north-west Slovenia was our last hope of “nearby” snow. Unfortunately Tess couldn’t join me on this trip, so I invited my brother instead.

Going from Split we would have around 6h of driving, but we decided to spend the night in Ljubljana. Having a beer and then early in the morning head for the mountain seemed like a good idea.

mountain day

We woke up at 7, had breakfast and hit the road. One hour away from Ljubljana we reached Triglav National Park. There is no entry fee, so we just parked the car alongside the road. Weather forecast for first half of the day was mostly sun and for the other part cloudy and foggy. Therefore we wanted to use the morning as much as possible.

The trail itself was not very difficult. Total of 9 km and 30% of it follows the ski-lift. Because of snow and ice presence ice gaiters and crampons were a must! It made the incline much easier and kept us safe. Our original plan was a circle tour Vojašnica – Viševnik – Jezerca viewpoint – Koča on Konjščica – Vojašnica, but due to snow covering all the trails beyond Viševnik peak and bad weather coming towards us we didn’t want to risk it and possibly ruin a very nice day.

Entering a beautiful tall pine tree forest where rays of sun lit up the snow around us felt very peaceful and it slowly guided us in the hike. As the trail wasn’t that long we decided to let the pictures talk.

The trail got a bit steeper after the ski-lift so crampons were needed since the snow turned into ice. Crampons are spikes mounted on hiking boots. The scenery along the trail was without a doubt breath taking. The combination of mountains surrounding the trees really gave the glimpses of the Alpes look.

4 km in we reached a new 90 degree turn towards the peak Viševnik at 1780 m altitude located just beside another peak on our left side called Plesišče (1801 m). We walked 200 m more and made a short break to enjoy the views and take some photos.

The Viševnik peak

The way up was trampled by the tracks of people so using GPS was not needed. Once we reached Viševnik the most amazing scene just opened in front of us. A 360 degree view of the whole area was more than words could describe. Right in front of us the peak Mali Draški Vrh (2132m) stood proudly and to the left was the big papa of Slovenia, the Triglav peak (2864m). Triglav was covered by clouds so we couldn’t see it clearly, but we hope that we will visit the highest point of Slovenia some time soon too.

We realized it was time to finish our tea with views and head back since the clouds were coming at us fast. We decided to give the circle trail a shot. About 200m after we saw that everything was covered in deep snow and it wasn’t the right time for testing our luck. It was a steep descent and we didn’t know exactly where the trail was, so we took the same way back.

Many footsteps were erased by skis so we had to be careful where we step not to fall in, but the way down was fast and easy. This trip was spectacular in all its views and nature. We could not recommend it more. True soul food that people like us always seek more and more. The day was slowly coming to an end, so we said goodbye to this beautiful nature rich country. Plenty more trips are ahead of us including Slovenia too, so stay close for more hygge trails.

Our plan this time was a 3 day hike in Bosnia and Hercegovina (BiH) and for that we chose a mountain called Čvrsnica located in the Park of nature Blidinje.

The trail we had in plan was a circle trail starting from Masna Luka close to Blidinje lake. The path would begin next to a St. Elijah church. The first part goes through dirt road and steep forest until we hit an open area surrounded by small hills. Then goes the T-section where we should take the left turn towards another steep part before the peak Pločno. On the way back the straight path would take us to the hut Vilinac. From there we would visit Hajdučka vrata (The Outlaws doors) and the head back to the start in a circle. All in all around 45 km and with some parts being a bit steep.

DAY 1

MORNING

Sadly, my prettier half couldn’t join me on this trip because she got sick the day before, so I had to find another victim, Luka. We left Split around 7 and already 1h later we drove though a Croatian-BiH border crossing called Kamensko. 1.5h drive further from the border we reached our destination at Masna Luka in Blidinje park. As we came with an old Golf 4 we weren’t too scared about someone stealing the car. On the plus side, the car was parked close to a church, so we counted on a low criminal activity in the area (speaking of the irony).

All jokes aside, the church of Sv. Ilija (St. Elijah) and the whole location was indeed radiating with peacefulness and zen. You could really understand why priests come here for a spiritual renewal. It was 10 o’clock and the sun rays escorted us to the beginning of our little adventure. The trail started behind the church following a 1 km pine tree forest before exiting on a wide dirt road.

10 mins into the road lead us to an intersection where we took a turn into the woods again for the peak Pločno. From that point we had 3 km of relatively steep uphill. We covered 500 m of elevation with 35% incline in average. Along the last bits of the uphill, a vertical, sharp and impossible to ignore reef called Ćužića kuk (1,793 m) appeared on our right side. As if someone just took an axe and cut of its face. A dream for any free climber.

AFTERNOON

Our next 4 km were quite opposite from the previous part. Hygge trail, joyful walk and fast pace over small rocky hills and bushes until we reached our second intersection. We covered 7.5 km in 3.5h so far and despite having only 2.5 km left it was not that easy. Not only were we a bit tired already but also that last incline was quite steep.

As we were going up the serpentines of those last 200 steep meters that seemed like kilometres, one thought was going through our head. Damn that soup from a bag will taste good! The house visible on the top is not a mountain hut, but actually a military base with permanent on duty soldiers. Needless to say that rules of conduct in this area must be followed! Finally, we reached the top and after meeting with the soldiers they allowed us to camp in the vicinity of the base.

EVENING

Before setting our tent and making ourselves like home we took advantage of the remaining sun light to take a few proof photos that we actually were here. It was November after all and the sun does set fast. After a small chat and a thank you to the soldiers for letting us stay around we decided it was time to make our beds. The first row from the stars and without a doubt one of the prettiest sights before bed time.

DAY 2

MORNING

Our morning views were just as captivating. Blue tones in addition to valleys filled with fog really made that fresh morning inhale even tastier. While sipping our tea and coffee we observed the whole atmosphere changing from morning blue to yellow as sun was slowly rising.

With our batteries charged we said goodbye to this amazing view and friendly soldiers. Our next point was the mountain hut Vilinac where we spent our second night. The distance from peak Pločno till Vilinac hut was 10 km and much easier path than the day before.

Steep way down took us back to the intersection where we now chose right towards “Peharovi stanovi”. We took advantage of the easy trail and developed a comfortably fast pace.

AFTERNOON

While going through “Janjičari” area thousand little hills looked like small islands sticking out of the sea. 2.5h into our walk brought us to Peharovi stanovi, a picturesque valley just 40 mins from hut Vilinac.

At last, Vilinac hut. Located bellow the peak Veliki Vilinac (2,113 m) it offered wonderful scenery to experience from its 1,885 m height. Even though our hike for the day was still not finished, it felt nice to sit back and rest. Old sandwiches were out while we took pleasure of the view in front!

Such a unique piece of nature this is. Veliki Kuk (The Great Hip) carries the title as the highest rock on Balkan reaching 1,700 m above sea level. Above all an imposing sight. Once we took our break we left the hut for a short 3 km sightseeing walk. We were headed towards Hajdučka Vrata (The Outlaws door – 2,000 m). Hajdučka Vrata is a natural phenomenon created by the hand of mother nature itself, untouched by the human hand.

Undoubtedly the most impressive view we have seen. Such a magnificent sight. The grandiose canyon of the river Diva Grabovica which is more than 1,600 m deep and 6.2 km long blew our minds away. Easily a place we could sit and admire for weeks. Unfortunately we had to leave already as the day was soon coming to an end.

EVENING

Since the hut can be entered only by making a reservation, we decided to sleep in our tent again since it was fully booked for the weekend. Just when we made peace with a chilly night, a rescue came out of the blue. As we were sitting around the fire, the mountain hut host Sabahudin and his friend Muhamed spotted us from the distance and invited us to join them for the evening in the hut. They came the night before to welcome the group tomorrow and once again showed how amazing people in the mountains are. Another big thanks to them!

DAY 3

MORNING

A cosy and warm night gave us a nice rest for our last day. Before heading back to the car we decided to take a quick look of the Veliki Kuk (The Big hip) as it wasn’t a long walk and we just couldn’t resist. When we left the hut the weather was more or less fine and clear, but 20 mins after the fog just covered the whole area.

Unfortunately we didn’t get the clear view from Veliki Kuk, but the fog gave it a cool mystical look! Now the time was to head back. We had 13 km to cover on the way back so we figured that the last few hundred metres would be at night. After we climbed the Veliki Vilinac peak (2,113 m) just above the Vilinac hut, everything was more or less downhill onwards.

1.5 km after descending from Veliki Vilinac we had some problems with the markings of the trail. Having a watch with a preloaded map helps massively!

AFTERNOON

14:30 and a well deserved lunch break. These food making moments in nature always give off the cosiest energy, don’t they? We still had 3h to go, so 15 min break was all we needed.

Once we reached an open view of our start point it hit us. You all know that feeling when some amazing journey is coming to an end and nostalgy just kicks in. As we were going down the forest path we were sharing our experiences and thoughts about the trip we just did. We lead those “Ahhh you remeber when we saw that…” or “damn that view was fascinating!” conversations all the way to the car. We cannot even put into words how amazing this trip and how beautiful Čvrsnica was in all of the 45 km we did in these 3 days. Bosnia is full of it and we are coming back for more!