Last time we went to Vaganski peak and in case you missed it you can find it on this link . But this time we wanted to experience Velebit in the snow. We chose an already familiar trail without the snow, which is Sv. Brdo. If you want to compare the 2 opposite atmospheres check our Velebit – Sv. Brdo: The View that Never Disappoints. Honestly, they are both amazing and there is no wrong choice (but we do prefer the snow more).

The plan

The starting point was Malo Libinje. To reach Malo Libinje takes about 16 km after exiting the highway including around 9 km of dirt road. Total trail length was 16 km and it took us 8h to finish it, but we stopped a lot. It was a circle trail starting from Malo Libinje – Vlaški grad – Sv. Brdo – Dušice – Debelo Brdo – Malo Libinje. The trail overall is not very difficult, but obviously snow makes it more challenging as we needed crampons and gaiters at some places where the snow was deep and a bit frozen.

Morning

After 9 km of bouncing up and down on a dirty road we reached Malo Libinje. A beautiful area of wide fields where cows enjoy their morning grass breakfast in the foothills of Velebit reefs. One simply doesn’t even need to go further but to stay here and soak in the intact nature with all senses.

Velebit hits from very start. Beauty to the maximum and it never stops. We passed the cute cows on the grass fields and started going up slowly. Unfortunately we did not run into wild horses which are common in these areas, but maybe next time. The weather was very nice with full sun, so a sunscreen was a must. There was no snow in this part so we were going pretty fast, but Velebit always makes you stop to admire something.

2 km before Vlaški grad (the hut) we started seeing traces of snow and that was an introduction to a completely different vibe that awaited us. Every nature trip regardless how nice it is gets even better if animals appear. We were lucky enough to witness several deer just casually roaming around the area looking for food.

Parallel with the deer we got closer to Vlaški grad. The first time we took this path we covered it during night time and therefore didn’t even see this part of trail until this day. It was a very cute path and definitely not worth missing out on.

Afternoon

Right after the hut we took a turn to the right and hiked up the small steep hill. As we went around it the wind started to blow a bit and the snow was deeper, so we changed our shoes and put on the gaiters.

Few meters after, the view of the Sv. Brdo (The Holy Hill) hit us with such beauty. We remember it without the snow so now it was a completely different look and damn, it sure looked nice.

For comparison purposes we put an image from the last time without the snow and now. The same spot, two different looks and we would say 60:40 in favour of snow.

Halfway on the uphill before the peak beautiful views opened up and we could not ignore them.

What to add more after these photos. Pure nirvana and we wished it never ends. Even the peak wasn’t that important anymore because this is what we came for. We wouldn’t change it for anything. Still, we had to continue because the day was not that long and we used a lot of time by admiring the scenery from the peak.

Evening

Wind got stronger on the top so we didn’t stay for long, but enough to enjoy the views. Titled as the best in Croatia, it certainly lives up to its name. Adriatic sea, Tulove grede, mountain peaks on all sides and islands leave everyone speechless. Time didn’t go in our favour so we continued our walk towards Dušice (Little souls) on the steep south-west reef under Sv. Brdo.

Dušice are a sand dune looking kind of small hummocks covered with grass, but this time with extra layer of snow. It is such a cute place, ideal for kids to play around.

10 mins from Dušice hummocks we reached the shelter Dušice. Definitely convenient if you get caught by night or harsh weather and the hut is not bad at all.

Sun was going down fast and we still had 5 km to go. there was no sun but there was still light. Until we hit the clearance before the Debelo brdo (The Fat hill). Not only we got sun but we got the best sunset you could imagine. Nothing beats a nice sunset especially when finishing a hiking day. Get ready for this…

1h later we were in the car sitting and still heavily impressed by the orange soul food called sunset. What an amazing trip. Velebit will always have a special place in our heart and with full right. We hope we managed to transfer at least a portion of the cosiness of this hygge trail of Velebit. Thank you and stay tuned for more.

On our last Velebit trip we visited the peak called Sv. Brdo (1751 m). If you haven’t seen it you can check it out here Sv. Brdo: The view that never disappoints. This time we went for a 2 day hike to the highest point of Velebit, the Vaganski peak (1757 m). Although there is only 6 m between them the ambient was very different. As pretty as both trails are, Vaganski peak trail was for us even better.

The hiking trail starts from a place called Veliko Rujno, but to reach Veliko Rujno you require either an off road car or a bit of patience since the road is not the best. We were packed with a lot of patience, so the holes throughout the 6.5 km dirt road we passed with a smile on our face. We parked the car on the side of the road where our trail began and luckily it was there the day after. The trail was 22km in total and not very difficult or steep, so it is recommended to mostly everyone.

DAY 1

Since we knew we would spend the night in a mountain shelter Struge there was no need for an early start. We began our hike at 11:30 and had around 3h of comfortable walk to the shelter. The first part of the trail follows a path through a beautiful autumn like forest. The first day was cloudy, so we had very few sunny moments to take nice photos. But we used our chances.

Morning has its strengths but the sunset always prevails. Nothing beats the golden colours of a setting sun. As the path is very friendly we progress fast. Already within 1.5 hour with all the photo taking we were at half point to the hut. Velebit is a place where you could encounter some wild horses and we were hoping for some. Unfortunately they didn’t show up, but they left hundreds of their smelly regards along the path haha. Cruising through this forest was really relaxing, the ambient and colours were very calming.

Once we hit the clearance from the trees we could see Velika Paklenica canyon. Another national park (since 1949) located in south Velebit called Paklenica combines two stream flow canyons Velika and Mala Paklenica (Big and small Paklenica). Outside the summer time when the water fills the canyons it is very nice to go for a trek following the stream flow. If there is a lot of water then it is best to skip and visit in winter time as it can be very tricky with high and strong flow.

Struge shelter

1.5 km later we arrived at our shelter Struge (1400 m). We still had several hours of light so we used them to collect some dry wood and timber since the previous guest didn’t prepare any for the incoming ones. There are several common sense rules every hiker should follow when visiting huts and shelters:

• Clean the shelter before you leave
• Put things back where they belong
• If you used wood and timber, prepare more for the next hikers if it’s possible. If they are wet, dry them in the stove.
• Do not leave any food that can go bad. Cans are a better option.
• Take the trash with you!

As funny as it may seem, but lot of people don’t follow these rules. There is nothing worse then to enter a messy shelter. Especially in winter time when all you need is some warm fire and there are no woods. If you have the possibility and equipment to do these things, you should. So we managed to collect some dry leaves and after 2h of fighting with the wet timber the fire was finally on. There are few more hygge and cosy images than the one of fire.

To make sure everything doesn’t go according to plan we forgot the candles, so we had to use our headlamps for find our way in the hut. It added to the cosiness. Soon after our delicious dinner we hit the bed as tomorrow Vaganski peak awaited us.

Day 2

Waking up to rays of sunshine hits different, even though the sleep was not the best. It is very difficult to kill the good mood on a mountain.

After a nice morning tea we cleaned the shelter and started our hike for the top. The weather was perfect. A bit chilly, but after few steps warm blood creates the balance. From Struge to Vaganski peak we had around 5 km and 357 m of height gain to cover. Good thing about this trail is that throughout the whole way there were two water sources to restock your water supplies. One in the forest at the start of the trail and one just 20 mins from Struge called Marasovac.

From this point it started getting even more beautiful. 2 km after water resupply we were entering a Lord of the rings like ambient. At least that is how it looked to us. Steep chasms surrounded by vast green colour and skyscraper high reefs. The path that went in a snake looking shape was disappearing between smaller peaks in the distance. All that within next 2.5 km. Stunningly beautiful.

The Vaganski peak

Pictures speak more than words and we don’t think there are words to describe all this. 70 m still to the top and we couldn’t wait to have our lunch and a nice warm cup of tea with the whole horizon on our hands. Last time we were looking at the Vaganski peak from Sv. Brdo, but this time it’s the other way around and we were dying to see it. Take a look at these views.

We were speechless. These views were spectacular. Sitting there connected with nature and soaking each millimetre of endless views all around us. We truly didn’t want to leave. Maybe we are not objective, but so far the prettiest landscape we have seen. After taking as much as possible from these sights we had to head back. 10.5 km was not a lot and especially not on this terrain.

Half way in the return around the same spot where we could see the Velika Paklenica canyon we noticed an interesting rock that could be a potentially very good photo spot. What do you think?

As if this trip was just getting better and better. Sun was slowly setting, so after an hour of enjoying this crazy photo session we headed back. Colours were getting warmer and warmer with each minute. The best way to end a hiking trip is a nice sunset. As we entered the last piece of the trail and got in the forest, that autumn look kicked in again.

And with that this trip was finished. We had absolutely an amazing time. One to remember. We hope you enjoyed our blog trip and these photos at least a fraction of how much we did. Thank you for reading and stay tuned for some future hygge trails of beautiful Croatia.

Our goal for this trip, a peak called Sveto Brdo (Saint Hill – hence the enlightenment). Sv. Brdo (1,752 m) is Velebit’s second highest peak after Vaganski peak (1,757 m). Even though the height difference is only 5 m they are 5.5 km of air distance apart.

DAY 1

MORNING

We started our day around 8, threw our stuff in the car and took the highway to heaven. Around 2h later we reached our spot and this is where it got interesting.

We parked at the completely wrong place (Tulove grede) and only realized that…..5 hours and 11 kilometres later! We took the wrong turn because we automatically headed towards Tulove grede as we have been there few times before. We just committed a well known human brain fart! Luckily, it was one of those trips when things turn up for the best no matter what.

Tulove grede is a karst reef located in park nature of Velebit. This limestone reef goes up to 1.1 km above sea level. The view from above is just as amazing as the sight of Tulove grede itself.

Those interested in film industry and western movies maybe recognize this place as here the famous movie Winnetou was shot. A film based on the Karl May’s novel about an Indian chief Winnetou from the Apache tribe. Just standing here surrounded by the scenery of high and steep reefs and untouched nature makes you really feel the atmosphere of the Apache chief’s wild west.

It was time for us to start walking fast as we were surprised how far we were from our sleeping spot (not realizing yet the mistake we have made)!

EVENING

We were about to reach a place called “Libinjska kosa” when breath taking views just opened in front of us. We would dare to say orgasmic view. Such an orgasm that your partner would consider it as an adultery. 5h longer walk, but no one was even a bit sorry for it. That also meant that we had to continue our trip to the hut at night time.

After this beautiful sunset we put our head lights on and headed off to the mountain hut. Hiking in night time was fun, but we don’t recommend it – especially alone. Our night hike was indeed peaceful, followed by moonlight and good old politically incorrect humour. 3h and 2 km later we arrived at our destination called “Vlaški grad” located at 1,280 m.

Tired and hungry, we cleaned ourselves up in the old school way. Back in the old days people obviously did it with lemon scent wet wipes and Old spice deodorant. My great grandmother once told me: “my son, always carry Old spice, isotonic drink and Whey protein wherever you go, the God will take care of the rest…” so I did. After some warm soup we hit the bed because we had an early start in the morning to Sv. Brdo.

DAY 2

MORNING

Rise and shine. As we woke up and walked outside on the balcony we… We just stood quiet while looking at the horizon. After breakfast and coffee we were ready to head off to Sv. Brdo and we couldn’t be happier because the day was perfect. Just above the hut there was a nice little steep hill (Vlaški grad) made for a morning wake up walk. From the hut to Sv. Brdo we had approximately 3 km and close to 500 m of elevation gain, so nothing too hard, but definitely a good power walk.

After the hill of Vlaški grad we were looking at a nice 1 km of straight and comfortable walk on the soft ground through short bushes. In the distance we could see the steep uphill that will take us just under Sv. Brdo. We looked at the people in the distance going up the hill surrounded by all the massive bodies of nature and it really put us into perspective of how insanely small we are. Just take a look at the photo below.

As we reached the peak of the hill in front of us we took a small break. It was perfect considering the scenery in the back and the sun that was warming our wind cooled bodies. Ideal moment to have a quick bite before we get to our final short climb and our goal which is just a couple of hundred meters away. Soon after we finally reached it. Considered as one of the most beautiful views in Croatia is exactly this one from Sveto Brdo.

AFTERNOON

While observing the scenery and browsing through the endless view, soaking in the rays of sunshine while eating a two and a half day old chicken sandwich that was just as fresh as a gun powder, we thought to ourselves: “…What more could one possibly need?”. Just beneath us, our eyes glazed upon an area with small hills of such a soft texture and colour. It looked like there was a carpet covering them. That place is called Dušice (eng. Little souls).

After descending from Sv. Brdo we found ourselves in this above all very relaxing environment. A look which resembles that of sand dunes, but covered with soft grass. One might say that being isolated here doesn’t look that bad at all.

From this point we still had 12 km to our car. Along the way we walked through beautiful beech forest that looked beautiful and even scary at one point. Even so, the whole atmosphere was very mystical and pretty due to partial fog coming down.

Velebit mountain was a battlefield during the independence war in Croatia like most of other mountains for that matter. After the war finished, some small areas still have not been inspected for presence of mines. It does not mean that the mines are necessarily there, but the bits which still have not been checked are marked with ribbons and are noticeable by the red signs like on this photo.

After exiting the beech forest we were back on the road that took us to our car. Words can hardly demonstrate the majesty of this place. Velebit without a doubt proved once again to be one of the mountains you simply don’t want to miss out on. And this is just one part of this Croatian’s true gem of nature as it has much more still to offer. Tired, sleepy and filled with priceless memories we entered the car and headed home. While looking through the window we were already thinking about the future trips to Velebit, so stay tuned for more of Hygge Trails of Croatia.