On the top of Bosnian Himalayas
For many years we have dreamt about visiting the majestic Prenj and finally the dream came true. Prenj was the one we wanted to do under just the right conditions, the snowy ones. Even though it was April and the snow season was already at its end, there was still some snow left for a last minute hike. This time we had a guest and a gide assistance, an amazing mountaineer and a friend from BiH, Muhamed Kovačević. Actually it was us who were guests for him to be fair.
The trail
We left Split very late, so the plan was to get to Dolina Tisovice (Tisovica valley) by an off-road car, walk to the mountain hut Vrutak (cca 2km) and spend the night. The following day we planned on reaching the peaks Otiš and Zelena glava and coming back for a second sleepover. Then the final morning going back to the car and heading off to Split.
The trickiest part was reaching the starting point, Dolina Tisovice. There were 2 ways and the easiest one was getting an off-road 4×4 car transportation as the path was very unfriendly and can often be covered with huge rocks. The trail we chose was short cca 13 km, but we obviously investigated much more and roamed around (not included in the total distance). There was no reason for bringing huge amounts of water as there was a small water well 200m below the hut. That same well can dry out in summer time, so it would be necessary to bring more than 2L then.
Day 1
We left Split around 19:00 which was late considering we had to drive for 2h to Jablanica (BiH), swap the car for an off-road SUV and take another 2h drive to Tisovica valley. We arrived at the valley around 00:30 which is definitely the latest we have ever started a hike, but it was a very relaxing feeling. Hiking at night can be scary and not knowing what surrounds you may be uncomfortable for some. But it can also be incredibly calming, hearing nothing but silence and seeing only mountain shapes in a starry sky. When we arrived at the hut it was almost 2 in the morning and we really needed some sleep and rest before getting up early.
Day 2 – Morning
The most revelatory feeling of hiking through an area in dark is seeing the same area in daylight afterwards. Especially if you have never been there, so you don’t even know what awaits you when you wake up. This was exactly what happened to us. Stepping out of the hut in the morning was one of the best sights for eyes we have ever seen.
Wow, what a fucking view! The massive, bulky and dominant appearance of Prenj was absolutely stunning and we were so eger to start. The backpacks were ready still from last night, so we just hit the road. Our first goal was peak Otiš, probably the most photogenic peak so far. It really stood tall and proud for everyone to see from kilometers away. Otiš is located at 2097m while Zelena glava at 2103m. The weather was basically like a summer day in April. The sun was strong and no one could escape from getting red even with the sun cream, but the snow was cooling us down along the way.
The path was easy and straightforward all until the incline to Otiš peak. We decided to try with a detour as we estimated that we could manage it. It would be faster than the official trail, but it was pretty steep and didn’t have any markings, so we had to be very careful where we step. We reached the first peak, Otiš. Amazing views with the whole Prenj and other mountain ranges on the palm of our hands.
Afternoon
On the way down we saw a group of recreational hikers who decided to follow our way via the detour without a second thought. We encountered them trapped on a very tricky spot. It was a snowy and slippery slope without a possibility to go back, but only up. Needless to say that not one of them had any basic hiking equipment. Walking shoes, sleeveless shirts, no crampons, no iceaxes….nothing. Complete idiots! Luckily for them 2 members of Bosnian Mountain rescue service were in our group who stepped up and helped.
The worst thing is that they weren’t even aware of the fact that they could have been resting in peace now and they just continued as if nothing happened. Regardless, we continued our way to the highest point of Prenj Zelena glava (The Green head)
We put our crampons on our boots and ice-axes in our hands and started the climb up. The snow wasn’t so hard so we had to be careful where and how we step. This part was really amazing and interesting, but going down was just as fun as going up!
Couple hours of the sheer experience of being on the top of Bosnian Himalayas as Prenj is also called and it was time to return. 2 members of our group left so it was only 3 of us going back to the hut. It was one of those chill hikes, no pressure, no running, but just pure embracement of the moment and the place. We took our time on every enjoyable spot and admired the beauty that this mountain radiates with.
Few hundred meters down, the snowy ambient stopped and vibrant spring colours kicked in. Two different worlds and each beautiful in its own way.
Once we got back to the hut we took a quick mountain wash with a cold water and made coffee with the best view. Priceless and yet it was for free. Best things in life are free. After a good rest we continued exploring this area filled with diverse landscapes. Tisovica valley was just a 15 min walk away so that was our next checkpoint.
Evening
Tisova valley was one of the most relaxing places in anture we have visited. The tranquillity this whole area poseses was beyond any word in dictionary. Vast empty green fields just called for a camp night. We were sitting at this table for 1.5h without a worry on our mind. Once we got back to the hut it was time for the cosiest camp fire and a nice plate of gulaš that tucked us right into sleep.
Day 3
It is always difficult to end a hike and heart-breaking to go back to reality. We really didn’t feel like leaving this place at all, so we had to soak every bit of the fresh mountain air we still could.
Tisovica valley is worth seeing countless number of times. As the valley is surrounded with high mountains it feels as if you are being embraced in its arms. One of the best hiking trips ever. Seeing and experiencing this nature for 3 days was priceless. We reckon it won’t be long until we are back Prenj!
