Stunning beauty of Vaganski peak
We have said it before and we will say it a thousand times more, Velebit is a majestic mountain. Regardless how many times you go there you will always see something new. The same views will look different and everything will have a new perspective. But one thing won’t change and that is your heart and soul trembling from nature satisfaction.
On our last Velebit trip we visited the peak called Sv. Brdo (1751 m). If you haven’t seen it you can check it out here Sv. Brdo: The view that never disappoints. This time we went for a 2 day hike to the highest point of Velebit, the Vaganski peak (1757 m). Although there is only 6 m between them the ambient was very different. As pretty as both trails are, Vaganski peak trail was for us even better.
The hiking trail starts from a place called Veliko Rujno, but to reach Veliko Rujno you require either an off road car or a bit of patience since the road is not the best. We were packed with a lot of patience, so the holes throughout the 6.5 km dirt road we passed with a smile on our face. We parked the car on the side of the road where our trail began and luckily it was there the day after. The trail was 22km in total and not very difficult or steep, so it is recommended to mostly everyone.
DAY 1
Since we knew we would spend the night in a mountain shelter Struge there was no need for an early start. We began our hike at 11:30 and had around 3h of comfortable walk to the shelter. The first part of the trail follows a path through a beautiful autumn like forest. The first day was cloudy, so we had very few sunny moments to take nice photos. But we used our chances.
Morning has its strengths but the sunset always prevails. Nothing beats the golden colours of a setting sun. As the path is very friendly we progress fast. Already within 1.5 hour with all the photo taking we were at half point to the hut. Velebit is a place where you could encounter some wild horses and we were hoping for some. Unfortunately they didn’t show up, but they left hundreds of their smelly regards along the path haha. Cruising through this forest was really relaxing, the ambient and colours were very calming.
Once we hit the clearance from the trees we could see Velika Paklenica canyon. Another national park (since 1949) located in south Velebit called Paklenica combines two stream flow canyons Velika and Mala Paklenica (Big and small Paklenica). Outside the summer time when the water fills the canyons it is very nice to go for a trek following the stream flow. If there is a lot of water then it is best to skip and visit in winter time as it can be very tricky with high and strong flow.
Struge shelter
1.5 km later we arrived at our shelter Struge (1400 m). We still had several hours of light so we used them to collect some dry wood and timber since the previous guest didn’t prepare any for the incoming ones. There are several common sense rules every hiker should follow when visiting huts and shelters:
- Clean the shelter before you leave
- Put things back where they belong
- If you used wood and timber, prepare more for the next hikers if it’s possible. If they are wet, dry them in the stove.
- Do not leave any food that can go bad. Cans are a better option.
- Take the trash with you!
As funny as it may seem, but lot of people don’t follow these rules. There is nothing worse then to enter a messy shelter. Especially in winter time when all you need is some warm fire and there are no woods. If you have the possibility and equipment to do these things, you should. So we managed to collect some dry leaves and after 2h of fighting with the wet timber the fire was finally on. There are few more hygge and cosy images than the one of fire.
To make sure everything doesn’t go according to plan we forgot the candles, so we had to use our headlamps for find our way in the hut. It added to the cosiness. Soon after our delicious dinner we hit the bed as tomorrow Vaganski peak awaited us.
Day 2
Waking up to rays of sunshine hits different, even though the sleep was not the best. It is very difficult to kill the good mood on a mountain.
After a nice morning tea we cleaned the shelter and started our hike for the top. The weather was perfect. A bit chilly, but after few steps warm blood creates the balance. From Struge to Vaganski peak we had around 5 km and 357 m of height gain to cover. Good thing about this trail is that throughout the whole way there were two water sources to restock your water supplies. One in the forest at the start of the trail and one just 20 mins from Struge called Marasovac.
From this point it started getting even more beautiful. 2 km after water resupply we were entering a Lord of the rings like ambient. At least that is how it looked to us. Steep chasms surrounded by vast green colour and skyscraper high reefs. The path that went in a snake looking shape was disappearing between smaller peaks in the distance. All that within next 2.5 km. Stunningly beautiful.
The Vaganski peak
Pictures speak more than words and we don’t think there are words to describe all this. 70 m still to the top and we couldn’t wait to have our lunch and a nice warm cup of tea with the whole horizon on our hands. Last time we were looking at the Vaganski peak from Sv. Brdo, but this time it’s the other way around and we were dying to see it. Take a look at these views.
We were speechless. These views were spectacular. Sitting there connected with nature and soaking each millimetre of endless views all around us. We truly didn’t want to leave. Maybe we are not objective, but so far the prettiest landscape we have seen. After taking as much as possible from these sights we had to head back. 10.5 km was not a lot and especially not on this terrain.
Half way in the return around the same spot where we could see the Velika Paklenica canyon we noticed an interesting rock that could be a potentially very good photo spot. What do you think?
As if this trip was just getting better and better. Sun was slowly setting, so after an hour of enjoying this crazy photo session we headed back. Colours were getting warmer and warmer with each minute. The best way to end a hiking trip is a nice sunset. As we entered the last piece of the trail and got in the forest, that autumn look kicked in again.
And with that this trip was finished. We had absolutely an amazing time. One to remember. We hope you enjoyed our blog trip and these photos at least a fraction of how much we did. Thank you for reading and stay tuned for some future hygge trails of beautiful Croatia.