about the trail

Total of 30km in 2 days made it a medium trail in terms of distance. The start of the trail was a nice, easy and familiar hike. Just below the mountain home Kredarica (2515m) the terrain started getting steeper. The first 2km of the trail were the same as the one we took to Viševnik. If you haven’t checked that one out you can do so on this link.

Except from the last part the trail was completely safe. The via ferrata from Kredarica to the top can be uncomfortable at points depending how well one handles height. It was not physically challenging, but having a big drop on both sides could create shakiness to some. For that reason a harness has to be used as a safety measure!

Day 1

We decided that it would be the best to drive somewhere close to the start of the trail, spend the night and begin the hike early. We found an adorable apartment in a place we would have never come across if it wasn’t for this trip. The place was called Hudajužna and it was an absolute gem of a village that represents everything that Slovenia is. Neatly cut grass with small hills all around the houses and little trails that lead to the top of each hill. There was also a river Bača flowing through the heart of the village while from all sides protected by heavy mountains. Two words for the ambient, soul nirvana.

Day 2

The plan was to reach the Kredarica hut with enough time to spare. Once we get there we would wait until the weather chages to start via ferrata. It took us 1h of drive from Hudajužna to the Hotel Center where our hike began. The weather was perfect with enough clouds to give the shade and enough sun to keep it warm. 2km after, we said goodby to the familiar path and took a left turn towards Triglav. Here the first landscapes of Koče (houses) on Konjšćica mountain appeared to our left side.

Vast fields followed us for majority of the way while green meadows gave off this cozy and relaxing tone. This ambient removes every bit of stress, if one could even have it in such a place. 400m futher down the path we reached an area called Jezerca (Little lakes). The name origins from a small stream that crates a pool of water and by following that stream we reached a higher spot and new admirable landscapes.

We couldn’t but to gaze on an incredibly photogenic peak called Ablanca as we were aproaching our next stop. It was another mountain hut called Vodnikov dom, below a peak named Vernar. It is safe to say that we could sit here for a week.

1h break and we were off again. The terrain started to get a bit steeper and green colours slowly faded away. Brown rocky ground and grey stones was our colour pallete for the rest of the way.

Once we reached Kredarica hut the weather was foggy as expected. We went to our booked room and relaxed until the weather changed, which was around 17 o’clock. Once the fog disappeared we took only the esentialls, the safety harness and the via ferrata could finally begin!

Via ferrata to the summit

The whole experience of climbing via ferrata was beyond exciting. Having that big drop on all sides made that feeling even more intense, but we have to say that it was not that difficult. Some parts were a bit on the edge, but just being focused and relaxed cleared out all danger.

These beautiful creatures made our way to the top even nicer. Every move they made looked so elegant and efortless regadless of the obstacle or the 400m huge hole below their hooves. You cannot beat the natural talent. It took us cca 1h to reach the top aka Aljažev stolp. Nedless to say that the views were breathtaking.

So far our highest peak we have been on and we were proud of it, 2864m! We took a good 1h of soaking in the feelings and sensations that this viewpoint radiates with. As magnificent as it was we didn’t want to climb down in the dark, therefore we hit the road back.

Climbing down felt much easier and we were down in no time. We were that lucky to even experience the warmest sunset as a reward for the hard day.

DAY 3

After a well deserved rest we had the last day in a complete relax mode. Since we already climbed the peak we could just sit outside in the sun and observe the hordes of people doing the via ferrata. Just a reminder, the Kredarica mountain hut can accommodate 300 people and it was full this weekend. 70% of them aimed for Sunday so we dodged a bullet by going the day before.

The clear sky indicated it would be very hot later, so we decided to head back while the temperature was still ok.

Last sips of tea in our favourite mug and of we go!

As expected we were going fast downhill, so we had some time to spare for a photo or two. The scenery in Triglav national park was absolutely gorgeous. Whatever you set your eyes on locks them for 2 minutes.

And just like that, our trip came to an end. Not gonna lie, we were so sad when we reached the car. Unforgettable experience filled with stunning landscapes, exciting via ferrata, loads of fun and great people. So many more amazing trails are located within Triglav park that just call out for visiting. And we most definitely will!

When global warming hits so hard that none of Croatian mountains have snow in late December, you have to become resourceful. There is a saying “if the mountain won’t come to Muhammad, then Muhammad must go to the mountain”, and we did exactly that. Since snow doesn’t want to come to us, we will go out and find it! For this beautiful, but unfortunately only one day trip, we decided to finally visit the Julian Alps of Slovenia. A stunning Triglav National park located in the north-west Slovenia was our last hope of “nearby” snow. Unfortunately Tess couldn’t join me on this trip, so I invited my brother instead.

Going from Split we would have around 6h of driving, but we decided to spend the night in Ljubljana. Having a beer and then early in the morning head for the mountain seemed like a good idea.

mountain day

We woke up at 7, had breakfast and hit the road. One hour away from Ljubljana we reached Triglav National Park. There is no entry fee, so we just parked the car alongside the road. Weather forecast for first half of the day was mostly sun and for the other part cloudy and foggy. Therefore we wanted to use the morning as much as possible.

The trail itself was not very difficult. Total of 9 km and 30% of it follows the ski-lift. Because of snow and ice presence ice gaiters and crampons were a must! It made the incline much easier and kept us safe. Our original plan was a circle tour Vojašnica – Viševnik – Jezerca viewpoint – Koča on Konjščica – Vojašnica, but due to snow covering all the trails beyond Viševnik peak and bad weather coming towards us we didn’t want to risk it and possibly ruin a very nice day.

Entering a beautiful tall pine tree forest where rays of sun lit up the snow around us felt very peaceful and it slowly guided us in the hike. As the trail wasn’t that long we decided to let the pictures talk.

The trail got a bit steeper after the ski-lift so crampons were needed since the snow turned into ice. Crampons are spikes mounted on hiking boots. The scenery along the trail was without a doubt breath taking. The combination of mountains surrounding the trees really gave the glimpses of the Alpes look.

4 km in we reached a new 90 degree turn towards the peak Viševnik at 1780 m altitude located just beside another peak on our left side called Plesišče (1801 m). We walked 200 m more and made a short break to enjoy the views and take some photos.

The Viševnik peak

The way up was trampled by the tracks of people so using GPS was not needed. Once we reached Viševnik the most amazing scene just opened in front of us. A 360 degree view of the whole area was more than words could describe. Right in front of us the peak Mali Draški Vrh (2132m) stood proudly and to the left was the big papa of Slovenia, the Triglav peak (2864m). Triglav was covered by clouds so we couldn’t see it clearly, but we hope that we will visit the highest point of Slovenia some time soon too.

We realized it was time to finish our tea with views and head back since the clouds were coming at us fast. We decided to give the circle trail a shot. About 200m after we saw that everything was covered in deep snow and it wasn’t the right time for testing our luck. It was a steep descent and we didn’t know exactly where the trail was, so we took the same way back.

Many footsteps were erased by skis so we had to be careful where we step not to fall in, but the way down was fast and easy. This trip was spectacular in all its views and nature. We could not recommend it more. True soul food that people like us always seek more and more. The day was slowly coming to an end, so we said goodbye to this beautiful nature rich country. Plenty more trips are ahead of us including Slovenia too, so stay close for more hygge trails.

In the search of peace from the crowd, the plan was a few days trip far away from the city. Mljet is located in Dubrovnik region (Dubrovačka županija) and big part of it is categorized as a national park. Mljet is undoubtedly an island that you will fall in love with or…no other option. Peace, sea, chilling and enjoying the nature. It’s like a dream.

DAY 1

3h drive from Split over the beautiful new bridge of Pelješac and an hour of ferry ride from Prapratno to Sobra was all it took. We arrived at our apartment in Polače, within the national park, around 14 o’clock and firstly made some snack for a quick energy boost. I (Lovre) am from Split and I have seen my share of blue sea, but this one still managed to make my jaw drop.

Afterwards there was nothing else we could do than simply throw ourselves in this magical liquid. Our plan for this day was absolutely nothing, but to relax and enjoy the sun. Our favourite place to jump in was exactly the one in front of our apartment, literally 6 m away. Just when we thought that our mood couldn’t get better we were honoured with a visit by two of the cutest guests.

The most adorable cat and a tiny little kitten made our our day go from awesome to nirvana. Peace, blue sea, no people near by, vitamin D all over the place and these two little fellas. We think that this face indeed said it all, what a life.

We ended our first day in paradise with dinner at a small local restaurant with local food (or Konoba as we call it in Dalmatia). With stomachs full of fresh fish and wine we went back to our apartment and enjoyed the views until the late hours.

DAY 2

Mljet is perfect for active vacation and obviously the best way to explore is with a bike. Like most of Dalmatia, Mljet is not flat and has its ups and downs. Riding a bike equals a really nice workout for your legs. Luckily for some, electrical bikes got invented and made things much easier. Tess went with the e-bike while Lovre remained old school with the regular one. Yes, it was hard at moments, but he is glad he did it as he now has Hulk legs.

Our goal was to see as much as possible by bike trails and road. We went from Polače to Pomena first. After we headed towards the the Big and Small lake. Then we crossed to the other side of the Big lake and eventually completed the circle by riding back to Polače for a total of 27 km.

The bridge between the lakes gets really busy because it is a cute photo spot. The Small lake trail was short (around 1.5 km), but it’s nice to see it from all sides. The Big lake trail though offered more in it’s 12.5 km. Many nice views and spots along the way, like the island of Sv. Marija that has a church of the same name located in the middle. A small ferry sails often to the island, so it is easy to reach.

The sun started to show its face around 14 o’clock. We crossed to the other side of the lake and took a lunch break before heading back. Awesome thing about this place were so many wild beaches along the road. Whenever we wanted to throw ourselves in, we just did.

Once cooled down we sat on our bikes and pedaled our way back to Polače. Like a cherry on top we were greeted with a steep 1 km uphill for our final test before Polače. Only one of us got sweaty…Our 27 km ride was done and now the only thing left to do was eat and sleep.

DAY 3

MORNING

Days were just flying and it felt like we just got there. For the third day we had a car ride around the island in store and of course a hike. It just wouldn’t feel right if we didn’t climb somewhere. Swimming suits were in the bag, camera in the car and we hit the road. Our first stop was the beach Ropa aka “Port des pirates”!

This beach was definitely one of the gems of the island because it’s unique and wild. As we observed its surroundings with the sharp high cliffs, splashing strong waves and aggressive character it became even more impressive. The vibe it gave off was as if pirates smuggled stolen goods and rum here every night.

Without a doubt, beautiful. Our next spot on the list was another beach called Sutmiholjska. A place you definitely want to have your sun umbrella with you as it offers minimum natural shade. Luckily we came early enough to catch some and left early enough not to get burned.

AFTERNOON

After couple of hours of swimming we went to the other side of the island to check one of the sandy beaches called Mala Saplunara. Lovre is not a fan of sand like Tess (she’s from Denmark, that’s all they have there), but this one wasn’t that bad even for him.

Tess: “Lovre, can you please take a good photo of this beach?”

Lovre: “Of course I can…”

EVENING

After this tasty meal we took a nice swim, relaxed some more and headed back to Polače. For the end of the day we saved ourselves a treat – a sunset hike. We were aiming for a peak called Mt. Montokuc. Not the highest point of Mljet, but it offers unique views worth seeing. Original purpose of the hut on top is a fire lookout tower and is located at the height of 251 m.

We started the hike from the park entrance gates and the remaining was pretty straightforward. The hike was 4.5 km in total and it took us 1.5h. One important note! If you were swimming before take a shower to remove the salt, otherwise you will end up sweating like in the 9th circle of Dante’s hell. Especially if it is warm outside, believe us.

15 mins later we came out of the forest when this soothing scene appeared in front us. In the distance there was another gem of Croatia, the beautiful Pelješac peninsula. 1.3 km later we reached the Mt. Montokuc. The cosiness of the wooden lookout tower in addition to the beautiful 360 degree views gave off the hyggest vibes.

This was unquestionably one of the most relaxing moments. The warmth of the sun slowly drifting away while observing the scenery made any worries disappear. Unfortunately, the sun finally set and it was time for us to head back. What another lovely day this was.

DAY 4

Time for The Odysseus Cave, one of the most memorable landmarks of Mljet. At the beginning of this post we mentioned that Mljet was an important part of the famous poem Odyssey written by Homer.

THE STORY ABOUT ODYSSEUS

As Odysseus was returning home to Ithaca from the Trojan war, he experienced a shipwreck. His journey back lasted for 10 years and his family assumed he was dead. Odysseus’s ship sunk near the island Ogigija where he swam to the shore to save himself. A nymph called Calypso lived in the cave, fell in love with Odysseus and wanted him to become her husband. Odysseus was enchanted by hers and the islands beauties and consequently got trapped there for 8 years. By the order of the Peaky… sorry, the Zeus itself, Calypso let Odysseus free and he returned home after 20 long years. That cave now carries his name.

This magnificent sight for the eyes was so mesmerizing and overwhelming that we were left speechless once we got inside of it. The key feature of the cave, beside its look, was the colour of the sea in front of the cave’s entrance until the point where the sun could not reach. It was so turquoise blue and so bright that it seemed unreal. The secret behind the colour was the angle of the sun when it hits the sea on a clear day and it’s visible only from 10-14 o’clock.

Once we opened our eyes under the sea surface a whole new world appeared. We could see everything so sharp, vivid and clear. Unbelievable experience of the underwater world. Nemo would be found within minutes here! Once we were inside we got the feeling of the cave’s size. Take a look at that.

We tried to enjoy this day as much as we could as this was our last day on Mljet and what a day it was. A magical place worth every drop of sweat we wiped of our foreheads while reaching it. A definite must.

DAY 5

So the day came unfortunately. We took the last swim, packed our things and left the apartment. Even the sky told us goodbye with heavy clouds. We had the most amazing time on this magnificent island. With our batteries full and a tear in our eye we had to say “until next time, Mljet…”.

Our goal for this trip, a peak called Sveto Brdo (Saint Hill – hence the enlightenment). Sv. Brdo (1,752 m) is Velebit’s second highest peak after Vaganski peak (1,757 m). Even though the height difference is only 5 m they are 5.5 km of air distance apart.

DAY 1

MORNING

We started our day around 8, threw our stuff in the car and took the highway to heaven. Around 2h later we reached our spot and this is where it got interesting.

We parked at the completely wrong place (Tulove grede) and only realized that…..5 hours and 11 kilometres later! We took the wrong turn because we automatically headed towards Tulove grede as we have been there few times before. We just committed a well known human brain fart! Luckily, it was one of those trips when things turn up for the best no matter what.

Tulove grede is a karst reef located in park nature of Velebit. This limestone reef goes up to 1.1 km above sea level. The view from above is just as amazing as the sight of Tulove grede itself.

Those interested in film industry and western movies maybe recognize this place as here the famous movie Winnetou was shot. A film based on the Karl May’s novel about an Indian chief Winnetou from the Apache tribe. Just standing here surrounded by the scenery of high and steep reefs and untouched nature makes you really feel the atmosphere of the Apache chief’s wild west.

It was time for us to start walking fast as we were surprised how far we were from our sleeping spot (not realizing yet the mistake we have made)!

EVENING

We were about to reach a place called “Libinjska kosa” when breath taking views just opened in front of us. We would dare to say orgasmic view. Such an orgasm that your partner would consider it as an adultery. 5h longer walk, but no one was even a bit sorry for it. That also meant that we had to continue our trip to the hut at night time.

After this beautiful sunset we put our head lights on and headed off to the mountain hut. Hiking in night time was fun, but we don’t recommend it – especially alone. Our night hike was indeed peaceful, followed by moonlight and good old politically incorrect humour. 3h and 2 km later we arrived at our destination called “Vlaški grad” located at 1,280 m.

Tired and hungry, we cleaned ourselves up in the old school way. Back in the old days people obviously did it with lemon scent wet wipes and Old spice deodorant. My great grandmother once told me: “my son, always carry Old spice, isotonic drink and Whey protein wherever you go, the God will take care of the rest…” so I did. After some warm soup we hit the bed because we had an early start in the morning to Sv. Brdo.

DAY 2

MORNING

Rise and shine. As we woke up and walked outside on the balcony we… We just stood quiet while looking at the horizon. After breakfast and coffee we were ready to head off to Sv. Brdo and we couldn’t be happier because the day was perfect. Just above the hut there was a nice little steep hill (Vlaški grad) made for a morning wake up walk. From the hut to Sv. Brdo we had approximately 3 km and close to 500 m of elevation gain, so nothing too hard, but definitely a good power walk.

After the hill of Vlaški grad we were looking at a nice 1 km of straight and comfortable walk on the soft ground through short bushes. In the distance we could see the steep uphill that will take us just under Sv. Brdo. We looked at the people in the distance going up the hill surrounded by all the massive bodies of nature and it really put us into perspective of how insanely small we are. Just take a look at the photo below.

As we reached the peak of the hill in front of us we took a small break. It was perfect considering the scenery in the back and the sun that was warming our wind cooled bodies. Ideal moment to have a quick bite before we get to our final short climb and our goal which is just a couple of hundred meters away. Soon after we finally reached it. Considered as one of the most beautiful views in Croatia is exactly this one from Sveto Brdo.

AFTERNOON

While observing the scenery and browsing through the endless view, soaking in the rays of sunshine while eating a two and a half day old chicken sandwich that was just as fresh as a gun powder, we thought to ourselves: “…What more could one possibly need?”. Just beneath us, our eyes glazed upon an area with small hills of such a soft texture and colour. It looked like there was a carpet covering them. That place is called Dušice (eng. Little souls).

After descending from Sv. Brdo we found ourselves in this above all very relaxing environment. A look which resembles that of sand dunes, but covered with soft grass. One might say that being isolated here doesn’t look that bad at all.

From this point we still had 12 km to our car. Along the way we walked through beautiful beech forest that looked beautiful and even scary at one point. Even so, the whole atmosphere was very mystical and pretty due to partial fog coming down.

Velebit mountain was a battlefield during the independence war in Croatia like most of other mountains for that matter. After the war finished, some small areas still have not been inspected for presence of mines. It does not mean that the mines are necessarily there, but the bits which still have not been checked are marked with ribbons and are noticeable by the red signs like on this photo.

After exiting the beech forest we were back on the road that took us to our car. Words can hardly demonstrate the majesty of this place. Velebit without a doubt proved once again to be one of the mountains you simply don’t want to miss out on. And this is just one part of this Croatian’s true gem of nature as it has much more still to offer. Tired, sleepy and filled with priceless memories we entered the car and headed home. While looking through the window we were already thinking about the future trips to Velebit, so stay tuned for more of Hygge Trails of Croatia.